Best birding spots in SA

You don’t have to be a boffin to be a birder. And the best thing about exploring the world of feathered flying dinosaurs is that the whole family can get involved. By Marje Hemp.

It’s not only Homo sapiens that heads off to wallow in the warmth of Southern African summers. Escaping the deepening grip of winter across Russia and other parts of Europe come countless thousands of migrating birds. Between October and March, they add to fly-ins from equatorial Africa and a flurry of mating, nesting and foraging among the local crowd.

There’s no better holiday fun than buying a bird book and challenging each other to add common and special sightings to your personal list. All it takes is some sharp eyes and a pair of binoculars to start an adventure that could last the rest of your life. Information on how to identify birds and where to look for them can be found in any good bird book, but to get you going, we’ve selected the 10 best summer birding destinations based on their accessibility, diversity of species and appeal to the whole family.

1. Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park
This is prime raptor country. The park boasts more bird of prey species than any other national park – numbers swell to 52 species during summer, two-thirds of the total recorded in South Africa. During high-rainfall years, you can count on seeing a large raptor in almost every tree along the Auob and Nossob watercourses. The popularity of this malaria-free park is such that accommodation needs to be booked well in advance, especially in holiday seasons. Most avian action is observed at the pump-fed waterholes dotted sporadically along the two riverbeds. Park in the shade of a camel thorn (Acacia erioloba) for an hour or two and your patience may be rewarded with grandstand views of dramatic aerial combat as lanner falcons and gabar goshawks prey on small seedeaters, doves and plump Namaqua sandgrouse.

You’ll also get good sightings at the rest camps – Nossob alone has a list of 50 birds that you can tick off. Set your family a challenge and see how many you can tick off in one day.

The park also boasts an abundance of owl species. The most numerous is the southern white-faced scops-owl, while the biggest is Verreaux’s eagle-owl, found roosting in large trees near Twee Rivieren. The smallest is the tiny pearl-spotted owlet, the only diurnal owl.

Big five: Secretary bird, kori bustard, bateleur, martial eagle, Verreaux’s eagle-owl.

Little five: Violet-eared waxbill, swallow-tailed bee-eater, red-headed finch, sociable weaver, crimson-breasted shrike.

Specials: Red-necked falcon and pygmy falcon (South Africa’s smallest raptor).

Don’t miss: An organised night drive to see owls and other nocturnal animals.

Gate opening times (summer): November to December: 05h30 – 19h30; January to February 06h00 – 19h30.

Accommodation: Molopo Kalahari Lodge, 65 km south of Twee Rivieren, offers excellent facilities. Tel 054-511-0008 or visit http://www.molopo.co.za. South African National Parks offers three main rest camps with chalets and camping facilities, as well as several wilderness camps. Web http://www.sanparks.org. All rest camps have swimming pools.

!Xaus Lodge (pronounced ‘Kaus’) is a fully catered lodge between Twee Rivieren and Mata Mata. Contact http://www.xauslodge.-co.za or tel 021-701-7860.

2. Pilanesberg National Park
This scenic bushveld park 50 kilometres north of Rustenburg is unusual in that it lies within an ancient volcanic crater. The appeal for families is that the area is malaria-free and there’s an abundance of wildlife, including the Big Five.

Pilanesberg is renowned for its mix of both arid and bushveld birds, with some 350 species recorded in summer. The best birding can be done at one of the rest camps, camping sites or luxury lodges, or by driving to the many hides, viewing outposts and picnic spots around the large hippo-filled Mankwe Dam. All provide rewarding birding as you’re allowed to leave your car and walk around.

Big five: Ostrich, secretary bird, black-chested snake-eagle, African fish eagle, southern yellow-billed hornbill.

Little five: Lesser striped swallow, groundscraper thrush; lilac-breasted roller, Cape glossy starling, European bee-eater.

Specials: Violet-eared and black-faced waxbills, dwarf bittern (summer only), red-billed oxpecker, bateleur, Cape vulture.

Don’t miss: The underground hide at Kwa Maritane. Manyane Camp is good for acacia thornveld birds such as the crimson-breasted shrike, southern pied babbler and Kalahari scrub-robin.

Gate opening times (summer): November to February: 05h30 – 19h00.

Accommodation: Self-catering chalets and camping in the park: Manyane and Bakgatla. Fully catered lodges: Kwa Maritane, Bakubung, Tshukudu, Ivory Tree Lodges, Bosele Bush Camp and Sun City. For details, tel 014-555-1000 or web http://www.goldenleopard.co.za and http://www.pilanesberg-game-reserve.co.za.

3. Mapungubwe National Park
This magnificent landscape of sandstone cliffs, giant baobabs and thick riverine forest is hugely rewarding, with the added bonus of one of South Africa’s most famous archaeological sites to visit.

There are more than 200 bird species in summer at this exciting new birding venue. Several viewpoints overlook the confluence of the Shashe and Limpopo Rivers, and an aerial boardwalk leads to a large hide on the Limpopo River, which is a magnet for birds. Near the tented camp, the Maloutswa Pan hide is a good spot to spend a few hours of birding and game viewing.

Mapungubwe gets extremely hot in summer, so rise early and enjoy the dawn chorus.

You can siesta at the poolside at Leokwe Camp at midday and observe the Verreauxs’ eagle nest on the cliff above reception.

Big five: Verreauxs’ eagle, African hawk eagle, African openbill, Goliath heron, red-crested korhaan.

Little five: White-fronted bee-eater, Meyer’s parrot, broad-billed roller, blue waxbill; red-billed buffalo weaver.

Specials: Pel’s fishing owl, carmine bee-eater, Caspian plover (on the plains), and three-banded courser.

Main gate times: 06h00 – 18h00.

Don’t miss: A visit to Den Staat Wetlands, with its pygmy geese and African jacana.

Accommodation: Leokwe Camp has been designed to resemble a Venda village; cottages have air-cons and there is a lovely pool and deck. The Limpopo Tented Camp is in a riverine forest. Tshugulu Lodge is suitable for big groups. Visit http://www.sanparks.org for details. Fully catered five-star accommodation with air-con is available at Mopane Bush Lodge. Tel 015-534-7906, web http://www.mopanebushlodge.co.za.

4. Kruger National Park
The Kruger Park is a birding Mecca with a diversity of habitat that supports more than 500 bird species in the warmer months. This is when they are easily spotted as they tend to be more vocal and are busy rearing their young.

While visitors are confined mainly to their vehicles in the park, there are many viewing sites, bridges and picnic spots where you are allowed to wander at will. At river crossings, look along the edges for green-backed heron, African jacana and African finfoot.

Rest camps offer wonderful birding opportunities. Many of the tropical bird species reach their southern limit at Pafuri, making this one of the most exciting birding localities in the park.

Big five: Ground hornbill, saddle-billed stork, marabou stork, lappet-faced vulture, martial eagle.

Little five: Red-headed weaver, violet-backed starling, red-billed oxpecker, Cape glossy starling, scarlet-chested sunbird.

Specials: Too numerous to mention all, but keep an eye open for large eagles not easily seen elsewhere. Pafuri specials include black-throated wattle-eye, white-crowned lapwing, crested guineafowl, Bhm’s spinetail and Pel’s fishing owl.

Don’t miss: The riverine ambles at Letaba and Berg-en-Dal Camps and the Paradise Flycatcher Trail at Punda Maria.

Camp gate opening times (summer): November to January 04h30 – 18h30; February 05h30 – 18h30.

Accommodation: Web http://www.sanparks.org. Also refer to the Getaway Guide to the Kruger National Park (Sunbird).

5. Mtunzini and Umlalazi Nature Reserve
The sleepy Zululand coastal town of Mtunzini, 120 kilometres north of Durban, is home to one of South Africa’s rarest birds, the palm-nut vulture, which roosts and nests in the town’s raffia palm forest (now a nat-ional monument).

This unusual bird was formerly known as the vulturine fish eagle as it catches fish and other aquatic animals like crabs, as well as feeding on the oily, protein-rich husks of the palm tree fruit.

Surrounded by large areas of natural beauty, the town offers good birding in varied habitats, from mangrove swamp forest to the Umlalazi and Siyayi lagoon edges. Migrant waders can be seen at the lagoon mouth in summer. Walking trails crisscross dunes, forest and grasslands, allowing access to some of the coastal specials. Forest birds are most easily seen near the municipal camp site.

Big Five: Palm-nut vulture, purple-crested turaco, trumpeter hornbill, woolly-necked stork, long-crested eagle.

Small Five: African pygmy-kingfisher, yellow-bellied greenbul, white-eared barbet, purple-banded sunbird, yellow-rumped tinkerbird.

Specials: African finfoot; black-throated wattle-eye and mangrove kingfisher (in winter only).

Don’t miss: The forest boardwalk at Eshowe and the remote Ongoye forest (4×4) is the only known habitat of the rare green (Woodward’s) barbet, with its ‘chop, chop, chop’ call. This region is well covered by the Zululand Birding Route (tel 035-753-5644, web http://www.zbr.co.za).

Accommodation: For Umlalazi Chalets or camp site, contact Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife, tel 033-845-1000. Mtunzini Chalets comprise 22 fully equipped self-catering log cabins in dune forest close to the beach. Tel 035-340-1953, web http://www.mtunzini.org.za.

6. Sani Pass and adjacent Drakensberg
The spectacular Sani Pass, the highest road pass in Southern Africa, is good for viewing high-altitude specials and is best visited in summer, when wild flowers abound. Without a 4×4, you’ll have to turn back at the South African border post as the final ascent is up a series of steep switchbacks. Check boggy areas for bald ibis near the Sani Top Chalet.

Overhead, you may be lucky enough to spot a bearded vulture, a denizen of the high Drakensberg range. When feeding, it takes large bones and drops them to smash into edible splinters.

Big five: Bearded vulture, Cape vulture, Verreauxs’ eagle, jackal buzzard, southern bald ibis.

Little five: Guerney’s sugarbird, malachite sunbird, Drakensberg siskin, sentinel rock-thrush, buff-streaked chat.

Bonus point: Sloggett’s ice rat (look for it in rocky crevices around Sani Top Chalet).

Specials: Drakensberg rock-jumper, ground woodpecker.

Don’t forget: Passports are required to enter Lesotho, even for children. The border post is open 8h00 – 16h00 daily.

Where to stay: Sani Pass Hotel tel 033-702-1320, web http://www.sanipasshotel.co.za. Himeville Arms tel 033-702-1305. Rough it at Sani Top Chalet (self-catering available) tel 033-702-1158 or 082-715-1131.

More info: If you don’t own a 4×4, contact Sani Pass Tours tel 033-701-1064, web http://www.sanipasstours.com. For a local bird guide, contact Stuart McLean on 082-742-6981.

7. Oribi Gorge
The spectacular Oribi Gorge, 25 kilometres inland from Port Shepstone, is one of the finest birding spots on the KwaZulu-Natal South Coast because of its accessibility and varied habitat.

To appreciate a bird’s eye view of the gorge, stop at the Oribi Gorge Hotel view point. Drive down to the Oribi Gorge Nature Reserve and Mzimkulwana River to the picnic area where the main road crosses the river. This is one of the most productive forest bird-ing spots in the reserve. Several walking trails traverse the various habitats.

Big five: African crowned eagle, crowned hornbill, trumpeter hornbill, Narina trogon, Knysna touraco.

Little five: Olive bush-shrike, grey waxbill, collared sunbird, brown scrub-robin, green twinspot.

Specials: Knysna woodpecker (northern limit of its range) and Narina trogon. A pair of African crowned eagles has a nest in the vicinity of the first picnic site.

Where to stay: Oribi Gorge Hotel tel 039-687-0253, web http://www.oribigorgehotel.co.za. This is an Ezemvelo KZN Wildlife reserve with chalets and camping. Tel 033-845-1000.

8. Karoo National Park
The Karoo National Park is conveni-ently situated near Beaufort West on the N1 between Johannesburg and Cape Town. It’s an excellent family stopover (there’s a swimming pool and restaurant) and has a good cross section of Karoo birds.

It’s at its best after soaking summer rains when the yellow blossoms of the acacia trees are abuzz with bees. Good bush birding is to be had in and around the thorny thickets in the caravan park and along the nearby watercourse.

Birds associated with drier regions are well represented, such as the Namaqua warbler, southern tchagra, dusky sunbird, Layard’s tit-babbler, acacia pied barbet, bokmakerie, pririt batis and all three species of South African mousebird.

Big five: Verreauxs’ eagle, kori bustard, Ludwig’s bustard, Karoo korhaan; Namaqua sandgrouse.

Little five: Rufous-eared warbler, fairy flycatcher, familiar chat, pale-winged starling, dusky sunbird.

Specials: Cinnamon-breasted warbler (rocky places), African rock pipit and short-toed rock thrush. Look for booted eagle and ground woodpecker in the mountain areas.

Don’t miss: A night drive for owls and nightjars. You may also see aardvarks, African wild cats, Cape foxes or bat-eared foxes. Recommended bird guide: Japie Claassen 083-724-7916 or claassen@cybertrade.co.za.

Main gate times: 05h00 – 22h00.

Accommodation: A wide variety is available – chalets, camping, caravan park. The restaurant can be booked ahead. For reservations, tel 012-426-5000 or e-mail karooreservations@sanparks.org.

9. Nature’s Valley
Nature’s Valley and adjacent Tsitsikamma National Park offer some of the best forest birding along the Garden Route. Large tracts of indigenous Afro-montane forest surround this strikingly picturesque village. The Groot River Trail from the De Vasselot camp site loops a gentle 4,5 kilometres around the forested lagoon, providing access to some fine forest birding. Lemon doves are usually secretive, but here they have become habituated to people. A Narina trogon pair has been known to breed in the vicinity of the camp site and this species is generally more vocal in November.

Identifying forest birds is difficult as they often remain hidden in the canopy. Fortunately their loud, characteristic calls give them away. Among these are black-backed puffback, para-dise flycatcher, red-chested cuckoo, bar-throated apalis and sombre greenbul. At night, you may hear a wood-owl hooting softly.

Big five: African crowned eagle, Knysna touraco, African goshawk, Narina trogon, green wood-hoopoe.

Little five: Chorister robin-chat, blue-mantled crested-flycatcher, black-headed oriole, Knysna woodpecker and the emerald cuckoo.

Specials: Half-collared kingfisher, white-backed night-heron and African finfoot are occasionally seen along the Groot River.

Accommodation: Nature’s Valley Rest Camp tel 044-531-6700, web http://www.sanparks.org. Nature’s Valley Guest House tel 044-531-6805, web http://www.hikershaven.co.za. Tranquillity Lodge tel 044-531-6663.

10. West Coast National Park
Summer birding doesn’t get much better than this – in early September, countless migrant waders arrive and leave again towards the end of March. Langebaan Lagoon hosts the largest number of migrant waders in Southern Africa, many flying in from Siberia and the Russian steppes. There are a number of bird hides and excellent birding spots.

You need to plan your day around the tides. The two Geelbek hides on the shores of Langebaan Lagoon are best worked at mid-tide (4,5 hours after high tide in Table Bay) as flocks of waders fly in to the mud flats on a receding tide. Key species include little stint, red knot, ruddy turnstone, common ringed plover, curlew sandpiper, grey plover and common greenshank.

If the tides are unco-operative, move on to the Seeberg hide, which is best an hour either side of high tide. Look for little and Caspian terns roosting among the gulls and common terns. In summer, larger waders congregate on the sandbar in front of the hide. Ospreys sometimes fish the lagoon.

Abrahamskraal is the only fresh-water pan in the vicinity and attracts many smaller seedeaters. The park also supports a host of Strandveld birds. Black harrier is fairly common here.

Big five: Greater flamingo, African fish eagle, black harrier, southern black korhaan, bar-tailed godwit.

Little five: European bee-eater, Cape penduline-tit, southern double-collared sunbird, ruddy turnstone and the greater striped swallow.

Specials: Terek sandpiper, chestnut-banded plover (salt marsh), common redshank. Rarities such as dunlin, broad-billed sandpiper and Hudsonian godwit keep birders coming back for more.

Don’t miss: A traditional lunch at Geelbek Manor House 022-772-2134. Kayak around Schaapen Island looking for seabirds or do a two-day kayak trip overnighting in the reserve with Gravity Adventures, tel 021-683-3698 or web http://www.gravity.co.za.

Accommodation: To stay in the park, tel 022-772-2144 or web http://www.sanparks.org. In Langebaan village, contact Farmhouse Hotel tel 022-772-2062 or web http://www.thefarmhouselangebaan.co.za. Recommended bird guides: Trevor Hardaker 082-780-0376 or e-mail trevor@zestforbirds.co.za; Callan Cohen web http://www.birdingafrica.com.

FURTHER READING

Southern African Bird Finder by Callan Cohen, Claire Spottiswoode (Struik)
Birds for Beginners by Philip Coetzee (Human and Rousseau)
Guide to Best Birding in Kruger by Brett Hilton-Barber and Lou Arthur (Prime Origins Press)
For details on these and other birding spots, try Guy Gibbon’s excellent website http://www.sabirding.co.za.

Field guides:
Newman’s Birds of Southern Africa (Struik) and Sasol Birds of Southern Africa (Struik). The latest editions will have the new bird names.