The great N2 detour

Bamboo Beach, Sandbaai, Overberg
GPS co-ordinates 3425’25.78″ S, 1911’28.67″ E

Before you enter Hermanus from the west, take a right to the beach at Sandbaai. It’s one of those quiet seaside villages where people go to retire. When Hermanus is gridlocked, Sandbaai offers tranquillity. Bamboo Beach Bar and Bistro is a culinary gem hidden just behind the main beach dunes. The family-run eatery has a mouth-watering menu served from a buzzing, open-plan kitchen. The outdoor bar’s walls are a mosaic of mirror shards and huge carved wooden fish leap out of the walls. There’s a kiddies playground amid the milkwood trees in the back. After an ice-cold Napier Draught beer or three, take a walk along the beach to nearby Onrus and stop for a refreshing dip in the natural tidal pools along the way. Then come back for more. Tel 028-316-4080

Willeen’s Arts and Craft, Arniston, Overberg
GPS co-ordinates 3439’44″ S, 2013’55″ E

Arts and crafts? Well, not so much, but for a genuinely great meal in a superb setting, head into the old part of Arniston and, at the end of the road in Kassiesbaai, you’ll find traditional Malay meals, home-made bread, jam and big smiles. Try their generous Arniston seafood platter (R100) or pan-fried catch of the day (R65). Arniston is as quiet as the water is blue. Don’t miss Waenhuiskrans nearby. At low tide, you get a great view of the coast from inside the cave. For accommodation options in the area, go to www.getaway.co.za/ directories. Willeen’s Arts and Crafts tel 028-445-9995

Vermaaklikheid, Overberg
GPS co-ordinates 3418’41″ S, 211’49″ E

The dirt road between Witsand and Still Bay is crawling with tortoises and you’ll find yourself weaving drunkenly between them all the way into the ‘town’ of Vermaaklikheid. It consists of a house or two, the Duiwenhoks Trading Post, guesthouse, pub and restaurant. The woman multi-tasking as a teller, waitress and information guide seemed disappointed to find out that the town was actually on the map, saying, ‘We wanted to print T-shirts that say, “Ja, Vermaaklikheid does exist.”‘ For accommodation, call Duiwenhoks Trading Post cell 082-421-5741.

Valley of Ferns, Diepwalle State Forest, Garden Route
GPS co-ordinates 3354’50.63″ S, 238’34.70″ E

Outside Knysna, take the R339 to Uniondale. You’ll pass picnic sites, hiking trails, bike tracks and viewpoints. Stop at the Valley of Ferns and take a walk – if you’re lucky, a resident Narina trogon will make an appearance. Further along at De Vlugt, look out for a quaint restaurant on the river called Angie’s G-Spot (044-752-3017/01) and have a meal before heading down Route 62 to Port Elizabeth. Garden Route National Park web www.sanparks.org

Seagulls Beach Hotel, Qholorha Mouth, Wild Coast
GPS co-ordinates 32 38′ 28.76″ S, 28 25′ 38.56″ E

About 90 kilometres north of East London along the R349, the tar road ends and the Wild Coast really begins. To get to it you have to take your car cross the Kei River mouth by pontoon and head east. At the end of the gravel road through the ‘town’ of Qholorha Mouth is a brightly painted, old-style resort: Seagulls Hotel. It’s a charming, family-friendly hideaway where the home-style cooking is hearty and delicious. Barry Keightley, the manager of 14 years, might be cajoled to divulge a fishing secret or two, although you’ll have no trouble getting him to haul out his guitar for a few songs after dinner. It’s the kind of place you book into and time slips away. DB&B is from R430 a person sharing, but check for specials. Tel 047-498-0044, e-mail reservations@seagullshotel.co.za, web www.seagullshotel.co.za.

Silaka Nature Reserve, Port St Johns, Wild Coast
GPS co-ordinates 3138’49″S, 2931’10″E

Tucked away south of Second Beach at Port St Johns is Silaka, a 400-hectare reserve of near-untouched indigenous coastal forest. It’s bisected by the Gxwaleni River which attracts incredible birdlife. Just offshore, Bird Rock shelters large numbers of white cormorants. The park has two-, four- and six-sleeper thatched chalets near the beach. They cost R450, R920 and R1 300 a night respectively in peak season. Tel 043-705-4400, e-mail reservations@ecparks.co.za, web www.ecparks.co.za.

Lake Eland Game Reserve, Oribi Gorge, KZN South Coast
GPS co-ordinates 3043’15″ S, 3011’10″ E

About 18 kilometres inland from Port Shepstone, turn into Oribi Gorge Nature Reserve. A winding tar road through a narrow pass called Hell’s Gate takes you to Lake Eland Game Reserve – just follow the fibreglass elands. Four ecosystems meet here: bushveld, grasslands, wetlands and coastal forest. Apart from game viewing, it’s worth the drive just to walk the suspension bridge over a green abyss. On the other side is a viewing platform which gets the brave singing the theme song from Titanic with arms outstretched to the void. Self-catering log cabins sleep five and cost R1 200 a night. Tel 039-687-0395, e-mail lakeelandgamereserve@saol.com, web www.lakeeland.co.za

Leopard Rock Coffee Shop, Oribi Gorge, KZN South Coast
GPS co-ordinates 3039’04″ S, 3016’50″ E

Exploring Oribi Gorge is a spectacular day drive, although it’s certainly worth spending longer to explore the curves of the Mzimkulu River’s course. To balance the meditative effects of the natural beauty, try out a gorge swing, whitewater rafting or abseiling, but don’t pass up the chance to have lunch or even spend the night at Leopard Rock Lookout Chalets. B&B costs R500 a person. Tel 039-687-0303, e-mail leopardrockc@mweb.co.za, web www.leopardrockc.co.za.