When Mabibi smiles in Maputaland

When Leigh Stefanski set foot on the sand at Thonga Beach Lodge, hidden in a dune forest along the Maputaland coastline, her thoughts were of turtles and whale sharks. Photos by David Bristow and Tony Makin.

White beach stretches for as far as the eye can see as you step off the boardwalk from Thonga Beach Lodge. As you walk barefoot in the coral sand, the lodge disappears into the dune forest behind you, leaving little thatched peaks poking out of the leafy canopy. There’s not a soul in sight, leaving you alone with your thoughts and the tumbling of the waves in your ears. The Maputaland coastline of northern KwaZulu-Natal remains miraculously wondrous and unspoiled; secret treasures lie hidden in the ocean depths, sand dunes, lakes and forests, just begging to be explored by eager eyes, fingers and feet.

Thonga is an unobtrusive and eco-friendly luxury lodge built into a dune forest in secluded Mabibi. Wooden boardwalks stretch across the forested dunes to the rooms. There are sea-facing rooms, but don’t imagine panoramic views as Thonga opted for harmony with the environment, rather than hacking away the dune forest for a better view – but don’t despair, being one with the forest is equally special and ensures scenery that’s constantly changing.

When you approach the lodge by open vehicle, the last dune climb is slightly hair raising. But then suddenly the ink-blue ocean reveals itself and you start the descent to this eco-tourism alternative to the Seychelles or Bahamas.

On arrival at the lodge, which was built entirely by the Mabibi community and is staffed by locals, you’ll be greeted by folk in colourful kikois who will show you onto a wooden deck overlooking the ocean, then run you through the plethora of activities available during your stay. At this point, you just might ask yourself why you didn’t book for longer.

Playtime on the beach
Although it’s tempting to surrender to the indulgent comforts on offer and sit feet-up for your entire stay, there are a few things you shouldn’t miss out on. Visit the local community or sip on a sundowner at Lake Sibaya. Go kayaking on the lake or set off on a forest walk, or squeeze into a wetsuit, arm yourself with a mask, fins and a snorkel and head out past the breakers in a rubber duck.

The snorkelling is fantastic and to top it all off, Thonga has its very own dive centre and many little-explored reefs. You could spend your days learning to dive, from the swimming pool stage right up to open-water courses and qualifications. If you’re already a qualified diver, there are two organised dives a day to explore the underwater wonderland just off-shore from the lodge. On certain tides the snorkelling around Rocky Point is truly awesome.

Hiding beneath the Mabibi waves is a marine carnival that any diving enthusiast would salivate over. It’s home to mystical docile whale sharks, and divers – and those with just a pair of fins and a snorkel, – hope to catch a glimpse of these majestic creatures and possibly even swim with them. For shark lovers, there are black-tipped and white-tipped reef sharks and grey, tiger, ragged-tooth and Zambezi sharks in the area, and occasionally even makos and great whites visit the gloriously warm waters. The coral playgrounds are seething with schools of flashy fish, eels and multicoloured spongy corals.

Two of the main drawcards of the Maputaland coastline are the gentle reptilian giants of the sea, the leatherback and loggerhead turtles, which make their annual nocturnal pilgrimages up the beaches between November and January to lay their eggs. Then, usually from January to March, the hatchlings scamper towards the glowing phosphorous-beckoning ocean. Thonga offers night-time turtle tracking from November through to March, and whether it’s moms or babies that you’re in time for, it’s a spectacle that won’t easily be forgotten.

The nature of a five-star lodge
The rooms at Thonga are spacious and luxurious, with doors that open onto wooden balconies, some with views over the canopy to the sea. You’ll probably get up close and personal with Samango monkeys, who quite enjoy soaking up the rays on the thatched roofs as well as dropping the remains of their foraging onto innocent and unaware sunbathers.

Gastronomically speaking, you’re in for a real treat. Breakfasts are spreads of fresh fruits, breads, meats and cheeses, with all the cooked options to order the way you like them. Top it off with your own plunger of freshly brewed coffee. If this sounds too heavy to tackle before a morning activity, don’t worry, the staff will keep it for you until you get back and can afford to just go belly-up with a good book.

Lunches are buffet spreads of fresh salads, fruits, wraps, sandwiches, meats, cheeses and some warm dishes – or whatever the chef waves his magic wand and produces that day. Dinners are la carte and the dishes have the gourmet flair you would expect at a top-class establishment.

There’s a voluptuous lounge to surrender to when you get the urge to sit back and relax. It has a fully stocked bar, complete with entertaining and informative bar staff who are more than happy to keep you company until the wee hours of the morning.

Don’t forget about the luxury spa for a bit of pampering, complete with manicures, pedicures, reflexology, massages, facials and many other glorious temptations.
Thonga Beach Lodge’s remote location makes it slightly challenging to get to but incredibly difficult to leave. But with so many things to do, the five-star indulgences that dreams are made of and the ultimate in peace and quiet, who would ever want to?

Things to do in the area:

– Snorkel on one of the many reefs or gullies around Mabibi.
– Go diving straight off the beach or from Rocktail Bay.
– Walk in the forest.
– Visit the Mabibi community.
– Walk on the beach.
– Indulge in gourmet cuisine.
– Be pampered at the spa.
– Look for whale sharks and dolphins when you head out to sea.
– Paddle on Lake Sibaya.
– Have sundowners on Lake Sibaya.
– Go fishing off the beach or rocks at low tide.

Highs
– There’s a wealth of activities to keep you entertained.
– The service and attention to detail is outstanding.
– Being in such a secluded spot gives you a true break from the rat race.

Lows
– It’s challenging to get to.
– The transfer takes a while so plan for it if you’re catching a flight.

Value for money ****