Cape Town’s best pubs and bars

Like the people in them, most pubs have a story to tell. Over the next  few months I will take you on a journey through some of my favourite pubs and bars in Cape Town, each with their own story.  Some historical, some quaint, some cute … and some to make your own stories in. Cheers!

Kalk Bay to Scarborough

From tea to tipple

The Brass Bell Pub & Restaurant in Kalk Bay has long been a favourite of mine since I arrived on the shores of Cape Town and used to hang out there on Saturday afternoons watching live bands, drinking beer and trying not to get washed out to sea when the waves crashed over the walls. Since then, glass panels have been erected so there's little chance of being washed away, but it still retains its charm and I'll show it off to Cape Town newbies at any chance I get.

Historically, in 1937 the original ground floor of the Brass Bell housed the Council change rooms for the tidal pools. A second floor was built in 1939 and became the "European" Pavillion Tea Room. The tea room was not a great success however and closed down, leaving the building to become derelict. In 1967 a Dutchman by the name of Frans Otten bought the building and opened a restaurant called The Brass Bell. In 1981 the restaurant was bought by Tony White, a local attorney who sold his practice to take over this popular establishment. No-one pitched up on the first night he was in charge, but that has long since changed. Tony still owns The Bell and under his reign this establishment has grown from a 60-seater seaside venue to a popular 450-seater seaside empire with four different restaurants, each with their own kitchen, menu and chef.

Each of the sections has its own unique personality. Some are older than others, some more formal and some noisier or quieter. The Water's Edge will always be my favourite. Despite the glass panels (which I still think kind of ruin the fun), you couldn't get any closer to the ocean if you tried. The beers are cold, the wood-fired pizza's are legendary and the fish and chips is pretty good too. It's the perfect place to celebrate a special occasion or just hang out with your mates.

And if I don't fancy driving, I hop on the train. The tracks to run right along the edge of the ocean all the way to Simons Town and depending on which carriage you're in, you step right into the pub when you get off at Kalk Bay station. After a few bevies I catch the train home again. Saturday afternoons don't get better than that!

Find it:

The Brass Bell is in Kalk Bay, near the station. Or just off the station platform if you catch the train. You don't have to be Harry Potter to find it. Phone 021-788-5455/6, email info@brassbell.co.za, web www.brassbell.co.za.

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Where spirits are not only found at the bar

You can't miss the Southern Right Hotel in Glencairn, home of the Blowhole Bar. Originally the Glencairn Hotel, this bright orange building has been there since 1904… along with its ghosts.

The hotel went under new management eight years ago and has undergone extensive refurbishment. The latest addition is the courtyard area which has an amphitheatre feel. Perfect for future plans to have bands play once a month. Not only will you be able to sing along to your favourite songs, you have a fantastic view over Glencairn beach and can do some whale-spotting during season. Soon there will be braai facilities where you can bring your own meat or buy a braai pack. To top it off, there are big-screen TVs for sports fans.

Open from 10am to 2am every day of the year, the Blowhole Bar has a good selection of beers on tap and you can also enjoy a game of pool with the locals. Happy hour is from 5pm to 6pm. Mums and dads can enjoy a pint and a bite to eat at Flukes Restaurant on the deck whilst the kids play on the jumping castle and pirate ship. Breakfast is served from 8am, lunch and dinner from 11.30am. Apart from daily specials, from Monday to Friday from noon ‘til close you can enjoy a roast or fish dish for R29.

Had one too many? Spend the night at the hotel in one of their eight rooms. But be aware that the hotel has some very special permanent guests of its own. You could bump into a little boy on the staircase who will simply disappear and if you stay up too late at night, there's a chance you will see a lady in white who floats about. Stories have been told about furniture moving about and locked doors opening and closing. I have never had the guts to stay there (or even use the ladies on my own!), but if I heard anything, I would shove my head under the pillow, pull the duvet round tight and swear to never drink again.

Find it:

The Blowhole Bar in the Southern Right Hotel can be found on Glen Road in Glencairn. If you miss it, you are colour-blind. Or had too many at the previous stop. Phone 021-782-0315, email info@southernright.info, web www.southernrighthotel.com.

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Whatever is happening in the harbour is happening here

In 1902 the de Beers Cold Storage Building in Simons Town was built for Cecil John Rhodes and used to store fresh meat for the Royal Navy. It now houses The Two & Sixpence Tavern, frequented by the officers of the navy.

It's a typically English pub with a pool table, dart board, big-screen TVs and merchant navy flags on the ceiling. Daily specials are advertised on chalk boards, beers are on tap and they do pub grub and a Sunday Roast. The pub is open 365 days of the year from 11am to 2am, with a well-supported local pool competition on Mondays, drinks specials on Tuesdays, Thank Guinness it's Fridays and live bands on Sunday evenings. It's no wonder the Two & Sixpence is the chosen watering hole for whoever's docked in the harbour.

Whilst pub grub, pool and beer is available downstairs, it's worth noting that upstairs is a different affair entirely. The Captains Table restaurant was opened in 2007 and in a more formal, yet cosy setting you can dine on venison, duck and linefish, all cooked by Nicky who is a chef and the co-owner of the pub and restaurant. The Captains Table is open for dinner every day of the week apart from Thursdays and lunches are served on Fridays, Saturdays and Sundays.

Oh, heard the stories about Ernest the English Bulldog with road rage tendencies? He unfortunately has left the building with the previous owners (surprisingly not run over). We ended up drinking a lot of pints earnestly waiting for Ernest.

Find it:

The Two and Sixpence Tavern can be found on the Main Road in Simons Town. Along with a few other pubs, but this one boasts a nice restaurant on top. Telephone 021-786-1371, email info@captains-table.co.za, website www.captains-table.co.za.

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The only camel in Scarborough

Camel Rock in the eco-village of  Scarborough is the sort of place you would normally just drive past if you didn't know about it. In fact whilst I was there most people did. It's an unassuming sort of building that looks more like a home than a place where you can get a cold one and a good meal. But when we stepped out of the car a small dog trotted down the stairs to greet me and I was sold. Dogs and beer generally get my attention.

Dating back to pre-second world war, Camel Rock started out as a trading post. Now run by Carol it is well-loved by locals and foreigners who know about it or have simply stumbled upon it. Carol claims that many people have been coming here for over twenty years.

Seafood dishes are popular and Carol told us that the lentil curry is so good that meat eaters often order it. Roast lamb, peri peri livers and tipsy tart can also be found on the menu. There's a fireplace for cold, misty winters and plenty of board games to choose from to while away the time. The people that came and went seemed to know each other and settled down with a beer and a menu whilst chatting about daily affairs. Dogs are welcome too, providing they are well behaved.

Considering it is one of only two places where you can get a drink in Scarborough, it's worth a visit. Pop in and have a chat any day from midday to 9.30pm, except on Tuesdays and during the Argus Cycle Race. It's a real Scarborough local and once discovered, it may not be the same.

Find it:
Camel Rock can be found on the Main Road in Scarborough. If you drive past it, call 021-780-1122.

Next time: Noordhoek to Hout Bay.

Whilst my love for beer almost matches my love of exploring new places, there are probably many pubs and bars that I don't know about. If you have a place you enjoy going to and would like to let the secret out, let me know!

Be responsible – don't drink and drive.