Secret Cape Town

By: Getaway
21 October 2010
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Our writers share some special spots close to their hearts.

Capetonians are passionate about their city. They may moan about poor public transport, traffic jams, the icy sea, the southeaster or incessant winter rain. But if an outsider criticises the Mother City, they spring to her defence. It’s not surprising.

Cape Town is consistently rated as one of the world’s top 10 tourist destinations, undeniably beautiful with its towering mountains, white beaches, great restaurants, good surf spots and coves where whales come to calve in spring.

There’s a café culture, the central city is pretty safe, the docklands are fascinating, all manner of lifestyles are tolerated and, always, there’s that Mountain – a wild heart you can escape into and not see another human being. It’s slower, safer and gentler than Johannesburg, more sophisticated and elegant than Durban and more cosmopolitan than any other Southern African city.

Gautengers quite often claim Capetonians are unfriendly and cliquey. The truth is that there’s so much to do around the city that locals tend to follow their passions rather than hang around some club or pub waiting for the action to find them. Share their interests and they’ll open their city to you. Here’s a way to get to know Cape Town – from the inside.

That mountain

You’ll be in the heart of a city, although you’ll hardly see anyone other than your fellow hikers. Around you will be one of the world’s most diverse plant kingdoms and benign wild animals.

That’s the magic of a five-day slackpacking hike on the Cape Peninsula led by legendary safari guide Steve Bolnick. With 30 years experience, he knows the flora, fauna, history and geology of the area the way you know your iPod playlist. Dominic Chadbon of Go2Africa recently did the hike and said: ‘“Scenic” doesn’t actually come close. It was a day of such eye-popping majesty that you begin to groan in resignation at yet another gasping view.’

Contact Steve at Mountains in the Sea, tel 021-785-2264, cell 082-888-3298, e-mail reservations@walkinafrica.com or web http://www.walkinafrica.com. There are also guided one-day walks for those with less time on their hands.- Don Pinnock

Cape Point beaches

If competing with the crowds and topless German tourists for a piece of Clifton beachfront isn’t high on your agenda, head south and you can have the seashore (almost) to yourself. Cape Point, part of the Table Mountain National Park, boasts kilometres of pristine, quiet beaches. Try boulder-strewn stretches along Neptune’s Dairy and Platboom Bay, or the secluded, sandy Diaz beach below the Global Atmosphere Watch Station.

Summer park entry times are 06h00 – 18h00; exit by 19h00. Cost is R60 an adult. Go early in the morning to avoid queuing at the park gates. Tel 021-780-9526, web http://www.sanparks.org. – Rob House

Kalk Bay on foot

Top Mountain biking spots

Hiking to Tranquillity

Pelagic birding

Tobogganing round the bends

Horsing around

Einstein for kids

Coasteering

Kayak with penguins

Dive with sharks

District Six Museum

Feeling bookish