It’s not about the tent – South Africa’s best camping spots

It can be affordable or a little heavier on the wallet, far away or just around the corner; on a mountain top, a river bank or near the beach. It can be a romantic weekend, family trip or a solo mission; it doesn’t really matter, goin’ campin’ is always a jol. Jazz Kuschke and his rural mate, Clive the Camper, packed their tents and went in search of prime sites around South Africa to pitch them.

SEA VIEWS

Tietiesbaai, West Coast
About two and a half hours north-northwest of Cape Town along the R27, on a small, sandy inlet surrounded by rocky outcrops and vast kelp beds, lies a camping spot favourite among sea kayakers and crayfish hunters. It was rather basic until recently, but improved facilities have led to an increase in popularity among Cape Town weekenders. But none of the charm has been lost and it remains a very special place.

Clive says: “Best check the weather report before you go, it can be pretty wild up there when the wind gets up.”

Book a spot: Contact the Cape Columbine Nature Reserve on tel 022-752-2718, or book a tent with a bed and self-catering facilities at The Beach Camp, tel 082-926-2267, e-mail info@ratrace.co.za or web http://www.ratrace.co.za.

Storms River Mouth, Garden Route
A popular family-holiday haunt, this beauty in the Tsitsikamma National Park is best avoided in peak season. But go during any random week and you’ll be rewarded with the thrills of a deserted camping patch, so close to the sea the wave mist wets your tent flap at high tide.

Clive says: “There aren’t many places in the world where you can camp this close to the booming breakers.”

Book a spot: Contact South African National Parks (SanParks) in Pretoria on tel 012-428-9111, e-mail reservations@sanparks.co.za or visit http://www.sanparks.org.

Cape St Francis Resort, Eastern Cape
Situated an hour west of Port Elizabeth, this vibey site is well designed and you pitch your tent in one of the 60 fairly private spots. All are on grass and surrounded by trees. There aren’t any sea views, but snuggle into your sleeping bag at night content with the knowledge that a swim, surf or game of beach-bats is just a hop over the dune and a dash across the wide beach.

Clive says: “The locals are a lank friendly, surf-riding, beer-drinking bunch, bru.”

Book a spot: Contact the resort on 042-298-0054, e-mail seals@iafrica.com or check out their website at http://www.capestfrancis.co.za.

Morgan Bay, Wild Coast
The road has recently been tarred, so what used to be ‘just 90 minutes east of East London’ has become ‘less than an hour.’ Set up camp in the shade of casuarina trees then watch dolphins surf the beach break and listen to the laughter and splashes of your kids frolicking in the Inchara Lagoon.

Clive says: “Morgz rocks during the holidays, buzzes with East Londoners over weekends and is tranquillity itself during the idle weeks in between. I’ve been in all conditions, loved it every time.”

Book a spot: Contact tel 043-841-1062, fax 043-841-1130, e-mail morganbay@telkomsa.net or visit http://www.morganbay.co.za.

Cape Vidal, Maputuland
Cape Vidal’s a cosy spot among the coastal dunes just 35 kilometres from St Lucia. It’s an awesome place for a family holiday and people often stay there for weeks on end. Spend your days game viewing in the park or fishing and diving the fertile waters of the Indian Ocean. Or do both in the same day – one of a precious few places where you can.

Clive says: “The size of the giant kingfish caught in the surf of Vidal is legendary among SA fishers.”

Book a spot: Contact KwaZulu-Natal Wildlife on tel 033-845-1000, e-mail bookings@kznwildlife.com or visit http://www.kznwildlife.com.

WATERFRONT DREAMING

Ebb and Flow, Wilderness
Situated on the banks of the Touw River in the Wilderness National Park, you’ll find the Garden Route’s most enduring tent-pitching spot. It’s a favourite among birders, beach-goers and Cape Town and Port Elizabeth’s long weekenders. There are two sections: North is more rustic, hidden among the trees up the valley, while the South camp tends to be busier and has slightly fancier amenities.

Clive says: “Rent a kayak from Eden Adventures (044-877-0179), paddle upriver until it becomes too shallow to continue, then spend the day splashing in the tea-coloured water.”

Book a spot: Contact SanParks on tel 012-428-9111, e-mail reservations@sanparks.co.za or visit http://www.sanparks.org.

Tweede Tol, Boland
Negotiate your way down the hair-raising Bain’s Kloof Pass between Wellington and Tulbagh to a sheltered little corner almost engulfed by mountains. There, in the Limietberg Nature Reserve and beside the Witte River, is Tweede Tol, semi-secret hideout of Clive and other discerning (read: fishing-mad) tent pitchers.

Clive says: “There are still beautiful brownies [brown trout] in the upper reaches of the Witte River – but they’re super spooky and a helluva challenge to catch.”

Book a spot: Contact Cape Nature on tel 021-659-3500, e-mail hcassels@capenature.co.za or visit http://www.capenature.org.za

MELLOW IN THE MOUNTAINS

Mahai, Drakensberg
Situated in the bowl of the majestic Mont-aux-Sources Amphitheatre, on the grassy banks of the trout-filled Mahai River, are 120 of perhaps the most dramatically located camp sites in South Africa. Although the setting might lull you into kicking back in the camp, it would be an absolute shame not to go hiking – of the many trails in the area, the 23-kilometre day trek along the Thukela River up to the rock tunnel is a favourite. Take your grasses, wild flower and bird reference books.

Clive says: “Wow!”

Book a spot: Contact KwaZulu-Natal Wildlife on tel 033-845-1000, e-mail bookings@-kznwildlife.com or visit http://www.kznwildlife.com.

Lotheni, Drakensberg
Hidden at the end of a decent dirt road out of Nottingham Road, just south of Giant’s Castle, is one of the less-visited Berg camps. It’s a modest affair, but therein lies its allure. The sites overlook the Lotheni River flood plain and each of the 14 spots to pitch a tent is named after a grassland grazer.

Clive says: “Hiking boots: check. Walking stick: check. Binocs: check. Fly rod: check.”

Book a spot: Contact KwaZulu-Natal Wildlife on tel 033-845-1000, e-mail bookings@kznwildlife.com, or visit http://www.kznwildlife.com.

Algeria, Cedarberg
The Cedarberg is hiking heaven for those living in the Western Cape and rustic Algeria is an ideal base from which to explore the rugged mountains. The last stretch of dirt road down into the valley to the pine-bordered camp can get rough, but it’s do-able in a sedan. Once you’ve settled on one of the 48 inviting sites, wash off the dust in the Rondegat River.

Clive says: “Go in peace. No radios, televisions or loud parties are allowed at Algeria. Why would you take any of those, anyway “

Book a spot: Contact Cape Nature on tel 022-931-2088, e-mail cederberg@cnc.org.za or visit http://www.capenature.org.za.

BEATING AROUND THE BUSH

De Vasselot, Nature’s Valley
Some 20 kilometres east of the built-up tourist hub of Plettenberg Bay lies the Garden Route’s low-key camping legend. Set in the De Vasselot Nature Reserve, the sites are deep within the indigenous forest – with some massive yellowwoods, a bird choir performing all day and unspoilt beaches to play on, it’s a wonder people still pay so much for accommodation in Plett. There are five awesome circular trails through forest and fynbos, and there are plenty of birds, so don’t forget to pack your walking shoes, binocs and bird book.

Clive says: “You can really get in touch with your Dalene Matthee side in this mysterious forest. Elephants used to live here.”

Book a spot: Contact the camp office on tel 044-531-6700.

Letaba, Kruger National Park
Camping is the cheapest way to see glorious Kruger and most rest camps offer excellent facilities – usually with sprawling lawns and lots of shade. But for tent-side game viewing, you’ll be spoilt at Letaba.

Clive says: “Pitch your tent close to the fence and watch for the pack of spotted hyenas that often patrols the boundary.”

Book a spot: Contact SanParks on tel 012-428-9111, e-mail reservations@sanparks.co.za or visit http://www.sanparks.org.

DESERT DELIGHTS

Augrabies Falls, Northern Cape
To appreciate why the Khoisan called it the ‘place of big noises’, go to Augrabies in summer when the river carries a lot of water. There are 40 shady sites, with power points and a pleasant communal kitchen. The true desert scenery and amazing gorge (not to mention the falls) make this one of South Africa’s beauty spots. It’s also a wonderful stopover to or back from the Kgalagadi Transfrontier National Park.

Clive says: “Go take that photo – I did.”

Book a spot: Contact SanParks on tel 012-428-9111, e-mail reservations@sanparks.co.za or visit http://www.sanparks.org.

Twee Rivieren, Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park
Twee Rivieren, on the banks of the dry Nossob River, is the largest of the camps in the Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park – an area of over 3,6 million hectares and home to 60 species of mammals, a variety of interesting reptiles and over 50 raptors. The camping facilities there are basic and there’s a communal ablution block, but its situation is invigorating and it’s a great launching pad from which to explore the enduring magic of the Kalahari.

Clive says: “Be nice to the camp locals – a resident family of cheeky ground squirrels. But don’t feed them.”

Book a spot: Contact SanParks on tel 012-428-9111, e-mail reservations@sanparks.co.za or visit http://www.sanparks.org.

CLIVE’S OTHER FAVOURITES

Palmiet Caravan Park, Kleinmond, Western Cape (tel 028-271-8158).
Jongensfontein Sea Resort, near Stilbaai, Southern Cape (tel 028-755-1140).
Mac Mac Forest Retreat, near Sabie, Mpumalanga (tel 013-764-2376).
My back yard. “When I get tired of urban life, I pitch a tent in my garden, have a braai and pretend I’m far away.”

Campcraft and Wilderness Skills by Peter G Drake (Southwater Publishers, R190)
You know where to go, now do it right. Although published in America, this practical handbook (did someone say ‘definitive guide’ ) is crammed fuller than an under-sized tent bag with valuable information for campers. It’s a gear and how-to guide. Starting with things as basic as what clothes to buy, to specifics on camp craft, cooking and emergency first aid. Available at leading bookstores.