FUEL
Fuel is readily available, but the distances between stations are vast, so
fill up whenever you get the chance (Kang, Etsha 6 and Rakops are useful refuelling
points on the long northern treks). Carry jerry cans if you’re venturing
off the tar … and lots of water.
ROADS
The main trans-Botswana routes are generally good blacktop. Most other roads
(in Moremi, Makgadikgadi and the Kalahari) require a 4×4. During the rainy season
(December to April) clayey soils in the mopane woodland are difficult to negotiate.
WHEN TO GO
Summer is warm to very hot with the odd thundershower: spectacular birds, fewer
tourists, good fishing, amazing sunsets. Winter has warm days and cold nights:
beautiful light, reliable weather and the Delta in delirious flood.
WHERE TO STAY (Prices have not been updated since published in September 2003
issue)
Camping is of course the cheapest way to experience Botswana. In the main national
parks camping costs P30 (R45) a person a night, vehicles are P50 (R75) a day
and park fees are P120 (R180) a person a day. For more information call Botswana’s
Department of Wildlife on +267-686-1265.
Khama Rhino Sanctuary has simple brick-and-thatch chalets (basic cooking utensils
are provided and braai wood can be bought at the gate). Enquire about night
drives and nature walks. Camping costs P25 (R38) a person a night while a chalet
(sleeps four) is P200 (R300) a night. Tel +267-43-0713, fax +267-43-5808, e-mail
krst@botsnet.bw or visit the website at
http://www.khamarhinosanctuary.org.
Mankwe Bush Lodge is set in mopane woodland and has a lovely pool and bar.
The lodge is in a large concession adjacent to Moremi and offers a range of
options. As there is no water frontage, Mankwe/Kgori Safaris also runs mokoro
trips and offers overnight island camping in Moremi itself. Mankwe/Kgori organise
seven- and 10-day wilderness overland options (with a mix of camping and lodging)
taking in the best of northern Botswana (special full-board winter rates start
from P3700/R5500). Full-board rates at Mankwe start from P400 (R600) a person
a night sharing. Camping is P55 (R83 )a person a night. Tel 012-361-7464, e-mail
tourism@mankwe.com or visit http://www.mankwe.com.
Xakanaxa is a spectacular camp set on the banks of the Khwai River. Full-board
rates are from US$250 (R2000) a person a night sharing (this includes game activities).
Remember that you will also need to pay park entry fees. Tel 011-465-3842,
fax 011-465-3779, e-mail botswana@moremi.co.za
or visit http://www.moremi.co.za.
Bed-and-breakfast rates for the chalets at Crocodile Camp are P270 (R400) a
person a night sharing, bedded tents are P110 (R165) a person and camping is
P25 (R38) a person a night (enquire about mokoro, bush-camp and Delta day-trip
options). Tel +267-686-0265/796, fax +267-686-0793 or e-mail crocamp@info.bw.
Accommodation at Xaro Lodge is in safari-style tents and the rates are P250
(R375) a person a night sharing. Boats and fishing tackle are for hire (P153/R230
an hour for a four-person boat). The rates at Drotsky’s Cabins are generally
the same as at Xaro. The sand road to Xaro is rough, so most guests park at
the Cabins and are ferried by boat. The camp sites at Drotsky’s have power
points and are tucked away beneath big riverine trees (P55/R83 a person). The
main activities here are fishing and bird watching, but a day trip to the nearby
Tsodilo Hills with their legendary rock art is a must. Tel +267-687-5035, fax
+267-687-5043 or e-mail drotskys@info.bw.
At Chobe Safari Lodge there are plenty of activities, including day visits
to Victoria Falls, boat cruises and game drives into Chobe Park, and scenic
game flights. Room rates start from P212 (R318) a person a night sharing. Camping
costs P40 (R60) a person. Tel +267-625-0336, fax +267-625-0437, e-mail reservations@chobelodge.co.bw
or visit the website at http://www.chobesafarilodge.com.
Nata Lodge has a swimming pool, bar, restaurant and shop with accommodation
in comfortable thatched chalets, safari-style tents or a camp site. Guided tours
of the salt pans are also offered. Rates start from P160 (R240) a person a night
sharing; camping costs P30 (R45) a person. Tel +267-621-1210, fax +267-621-1265,
e-mail natalodge@inet.co.bw or visit
the website at http://www.natalodge.com.
Other affordable lodges that come recommended are: Audi Camp in Maun (tel +267-686-0599);
Starlings Camp south of Moremi (tel +267-680-0170); Camp Itumela in Palapye
(tel +267-7180-6771); Woodlands 4×4 Stop in Francistown (tel +267-244-0131);
Mbiroba Camp at Seronga (tel+267-67-6861).
Alternatively a company like Jambo Safaris provides tailor-made itineraries
for self-drive travellers. They use some 20 camps all over Botswana offering
various types of accommodation (all of these also provide camping facilities).
Itineraries are tailor-made, so prices vary, but for camping trips are, on average,
about P67 (R100) a person a night. Tel 021-854-8897 or 012-330-2785, fax 012-330-2786
or 021-854-8979, e-mail info@jambosafari.co.za
or visit http://www.jambosafari.co.za.
Another alternative, particularly if you’re a first timer to Botswana
and want a general overview without the hassles of self-drive, is to do an overland
trip with a company such as Drifters (see Getaway, October 2001) tel: 022-888-1160,
fax 011-888-1020 or Gecko’s (the overland branch of Wild Frontiers) tel
011-702-2035, e-mail wildfront@icon.co.za.
For other travel packages contact Getaway Travel on tel 021-551-6399, fax 021-551-6398
or e-mail info.getaway@ galileosa.co.za.
ABOUT THE VEHICLE
The Nissan X-Trail 2,5 took us through Botswana like a breeze. It’s a
compact 4×4 that is geared as a ‘crossover’ vehicle, providing extremely
comfortable on-road driving as well as off-road competence. It has a sophisticated
‘all mode’ system whereby the electronics ensure that optimum drive
is instantly delivered to each wheel. In other words, under normal road conditions
the system is front-wheel drive (saving on energy losses and fuel), but as soon
as the electronics detect any slippage, drive is apportioned to both axles.
Innovative features include centre-mounted dials in the middle of the dashboard
and a cargo area covered in waterproof, washable material allowing you to transport
your pet crocodile in the back. To find out more visit http://www.nissan.co.za.
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