Travel Adviser : Mountain biking through the little kingdom of Lesotho

How to get there

There are eight border posts into southern Lesotho. All of them are open daily between 08h00 and 16h00. The bigger ones, like Van Rooyens Gate and Telle Bridge, are open from 06h00 to 22h00. Maseru is open 24 hours.

Find out about the condition of the roads. Although it’s possible to get to many places in Lesotho with a sedan, if you want to explore, you’ll need a high clearance vehicle with diff lock or a 4×4. While distances on the map look small, they take a disproportionate amount of time to cover. Plan on doing about 30 kilometres an hour on dirt roads and mountain passes.

Where to stay

Malealea Lodge is the best starting point for a tour of southern Lesotho as it’s very central and everything can be arranged from there – see the article on page 74. Rates are from R100 to R200 a person a night. Tel. 082-552-4215, email malealea@mweb.co.za or web http://www.malealea.com.

Moorosi Chalets is a community-run lodge just outside the small town of Mount Moorosi. There’s no electricity and water comes from a spring in the mountains. Although it’s mainly self-catering, basic Basotho meals can be provided on request. Rates are R150 a person sharing for an en suite rondavel, R100 a person sharing for a Basotho hut with communal bathroom and R50 a person camping. Children stay for half-price. Bookings through Malealea Lodge.

Ha Liphapang is a small village on the slopes of the Sepabala River valley, two hours from Mount Moorosi. Accommodation is in village huts that have been set aside for the use of visitors and you’ll be given the key to your own long drop. There are no baths or showers yet, but a swim in the river will freshen you up. You need to bring all your own bedding, food and cooking equipment. Rates are R65 a person sharing. Activities include fly-fishing, hiking and pony treks to see the rock paintings. Bookings through Malealea Lodge.

Semonkong Lodge is a well-established lodge and activity centre near the Maletsunyane Falls where you can do the highest commercial abseil in the world. It’s the closest lodge to Ha Ntlasinye and trips to the village can be arranged from here. Other activities include rock climbing, fly-fishing, pony trekking and 4×4 trails. There’s a fully licensed bar and restaurant. Rates are R210 a person sharing for an en suite room, R90 a person for a dormitory room and R50 a person camping. Tel +266-2700-6037, email bookings@placeofsmoke.co.ls or web http://www.placeofsmoke.co.ls.

Ramabanta Trading Post is an old stone lodge at the former trading post in the village of Ramabanta, two hours from Maseru. Just across the Makhaleng River is the start of Baboon’s Pass – one of the most challenging 4×4 trails in southern Africa. There are other, less intimidating 4×4 trails in the area, as well as pony trekking and hiking trails. Home-cooked meals are served in the dining room. Rates are R150 to R200 a person sharing for an en suite room and R50 a person for camping. Tel +266-2234-0202, email tradingpost@leo.co.ls or web http://www.tradingpost.co.za.

What to take

• Garlic pills and plenty of insect repellent help avoid the attentions of ticks, fleas and flying things.
• The villages don’t have electricity and firewood is scarce, so take torches, headlamps and plenty of cooking fuel.
• There are shops in the towns where you can stock up on supplies, but if you are self-catering, it’s best to bring most of your groceries along.
• Most nationalities need only a passport to enter Lesotho. You don’t need papers for your vehicle, it must just be registered.