Travel Adviser : Piet Retief – On the trail of unhappy ghosts

WHERE TO STAY

$$ to $$$ Settlers Hill Cottages in Grahamstown are historic 1820s cottages dotted around the heart of the town. They mix settler-style charm with comfort and sophistication. It costs R250 a person sharing self-catering or R285 B&B. To book, call 046-622-4243, e-mail settlershill@imaginet.co.za or visit http://www.settlershillcottages.co.za.

$$$ Umtali Country Inn is an ideal place for commercial travellers or conferences in Aliwal North. The rather Spartan rooms are clean and functional and provide a place to lay your head. It costs from R270 to R430 a room a night. To book, call 051-633-2400 or e-mail umtali@getaway-gateway.co.za.

$$$ For a more intimate stay in Aliwal North, the Queens Terrace B&B provides a homely atmosphere in one of the oldest buildings in the town, beautifully renovated with six luxury rooms. It costs from R300 a person a night or R200 sharing. Call 051-634 2291 or 083-262-0131 or e-mail nff@xsinet.co.za.

$$$ to $$$$ Thaba Nchu itself doesn’t boast many reasons to stay over, but 20km away is the elegant Protea Black Mountain Hotel beside the Moutloatsi Setlogelo Dam. There’s a great buffet and fully equipped, comfortable rooms. You can take a sundowner cruise on the dam or an afternoon game drive in the Maria Moroka National Park. It costs from R975 a person a night, but there’s a special on at R432 a couple a night B&B. To book, call 051-871-4200, e-mail reservations@proteablackmountain.co.za or visit http://www.proteahotels.com/blackmountain.

$$ to $$$ Winburg is a centrepiece in South African trekker history, much of which is documented and displayed on the walls of the homely Winburg Guesthouse. The bar, restaurant and social area combine with country-style rooms to create a relaxed and social atmosphere. It costs from R170 a person a night or R270 for two.

Breakfast is R35 and dinners are la carte. Call 051-881-0233 or e-mail guesthouse@shisas.com.

$$$ Nestled under the cliffs of the Rooiberg in the Eastern Freestate, near Fouriesburg is Wyndford Holiday Farm. It’s a wonderful place for families, with entertainment and activities for any age. As far as value for money goes, it’s hard to beat. Rooms cost from R300 to R490 a person a night, full board, all activities and morning and afternoon tea. Call 058-223-0274, e-mail reception@wyndford.co.za or visit http://www.wyndford.co.za.

$$$$ Enjoy panoramic views of the Drakensberg amphitheatre from the luxurious rooms of the Montusi Mountain Lodge, with gourmet meals, guided hikes and outstanding hospitality. DB&B is from R780 a person a night. To book, call 036-438-6243, e-mail info@montusi.za.net or visit http://www.montusi.za.net.

$$ Less extravagant are Dumbe self-catering chalets perched at the top of Retief’s Pass (near Oliviershoek pass) in the Drakens-berg. There are spectacular views from the comfortable chalets and 4×4 enthusiasts will love the trail. It costs R250 a person a night. To book, call 058-623-0334, e-mail dumbe@tourismsa.co.za or visit http://www.wheretostay.co.za/dumbe.

$$ to $$$ Situated in Durban North, The Willows is a comfortable and homely place to stay. Self catering or B&B, the rooms all have their own style with kitchenette and en suite bathroom. It costs from R190 to R300 a person a night. To book, call 031-564-9584, e-mail jacqui@thewillows.co.za or visit http://www.thewillows.co.za.

$$ In the heart of Zululand, staying in the uMuzi Bush Camp in Ulundi is a unique experience. Its traditional Zulu beehive huts contain modern accommodation conveniences. You can enjoy evening drinks around a campfire and a hearty braai in the evening (weather permitting). It costs from R155 a person a night B&B in a dorm to R450 B&B a night for a suite that sleeps two. Dinners are R65 extra. Call 035-450-2531, e-mail info@tintasafaris.co.za or visit http://www.tintasafaris.co.za.