When did you last see the Big Five? Although some of your overseas friends may think you have lions roaming your back garden, the reality is most South Africans don’t have Kruger National Park on their doorstep. In fact, many locals believe a lot of planning – and money – is required to see some of Africa’s most coveted creatures.

To show you that a Big Five experience is more accessible than you think, we’ve handpicked a selection of parks and reserves, all within reasonably short drives from a major city. Although not fully inclusive, the following spots have been chosen for their accessibility, quality and, of course, the presence of those fearsome five: lion, elephant, Cape buffalo, leopard and rhinoceros. Just remember: a game reserve isn’t a national park, so don’t expect a miniature Kruger.

Big Five near Johannesburg

Take a drive to these two top reserves within a few hours of Joburg.

Pilanesberg Game Reserve

Imagine being able to say you encountered the Big Five while driving around the crater of an extinct volcano with a dam at its centre. That’s what you get at Pilanesberg Game Reserve. Since it’s Sun City’s neighbour, you can combine fun family activities with a journey through 55 000 hectares of wilderness. Incorporating a number of luxury lodges, you have the chance to see the Big 5 with everything from elephantback safaris to guided game drives and hiking trails, or you can visit for the day and navigate the reserve in your own vehicle.

Getting to Pilansberg

From Pretoria, take the N4 to Rustenburg. Turn right onto the R565 to Pilanesberg.

What Pilanesberg costs

Day visits from R65 a person and R20 a vehicle. Accommodation is from R750 at Black Rhino Lodge to R4 280 for two people sharing a night at Kwa Maritane Bush Lodge. Tel 014-555-1600, pilanesberg@nwptb.co.za, www.pilanesberggamereserve.com.

Mabula Game Reserve

Of the smaller reserves, Mabula Game Reserve, at just 1 200 hectares, still packs a punch. Here in the foothills of the Waterberg Mountain Range you’ll come across hippo, African python and Nile crocodile in addition to the Big Five. Day trips to Mabula are not an option, but overnight guests can choose from activities that include horse and night safaris, bush walks, snake demonstrations, archery, spa treatments and hot-air-balloon safaris.

Getting to Mabula Game Reserve

Take N1 towards Pretoria and turn onto Pietersburg highway to Bela Bela. Take the Codrington off-ramp, turn left at yield sign and proceed for about 5 km before turning right at the T-junction. Go left at the garage and pass the Forever Resorts Aventura to the traffic circle. Turn left onto the Thabazimbi/Rooiberg road for 34 km. Turn right onto Rooiberg Road and follow the signs.

What Mabula Game Reserve costs

Overnight accommodation is from R1 785 a person and includes three meals and two safaris. Tel 014-734-7000, reservations@lodge.mabula.co.za, www.mabula.com.

Big Five near Port Elizabeth

These four game reserves are worth a drive from the city.

Kariega Game Reserve

Although not open to day-trippers, Kariega Game Reserve, 140 kilometres from Port Elizabeth, offers an unusual game-viewing experience by canoe or boat on the Bushman’s River. Walking on the predator-free, eastern River Lodge section is a popular activity and game drives tend to be personalised with small groups of guests.

Getting to Kariega Game Reserve

From Port Elizabeth, take the N2 to Grahamstown and turn right onto the R72 to Kenton-On-Sea. Then take the R343 and look for signs after 14 km.

What Kariega Game Reserve costs

Full-board rates start from R2 200 a person a night sharing at Main Lodge, R2600 at Ukhozi Lodge and R2 800 at River Lodge. Tel 046-636-7904, res2@kariega.co.za, www.kariega.co.za.

Addo Elephant National Park

At Addo Elephant National Park there’s no need for luxury lodges, ranger-guided safaris and fancy chefs. In fact, if you’re in the park for a day trip, why not have one of the local hop-on guides join you in your vehicle? Apart from seeing the Big Five, including herds of up to 100 elephant, Addo offers excellent bird-watching. South Africa’s thirdlargest national park covers 180 000 hectares and a wide diversity of landscapes, fauna and flora, making it one of the best game-viewing experiences near a major city.

Getting to Addo Elephant National Park

Take the N2 towards Grahamstown. Turn left at the sign to Motherwell and Addo Elephant National Park. Turn left at the top of the off-ramp and follow this road until you see the park entrance on the right.

What Addo Elephant National Park costs

Day visitors pay a conservation fee of R38 for South African residents (unless you have a Wild Card). Accommodation is from R175 (camping) to R2 760 (guesthouse) a person a night sharing. Tel 042-233-8600, addoenquiries@sanparks.org, www.sanparks.org/parks/addo.

Lalibela Game Reserve

Only an hour from Port Elizabeth, Lalibela’s entire population of animals is free-roaming as there are no public roads cutting through the 7 500 hectares of savanna, fynbos and acacia woodland. An excellent children’s programme allows kids to explore the reserve with their own ranger and vehicle, giving mom and dad some peace and quiet. Night drives give you the chance to spot the elusive bat-eared fox, aardvark, black-backed jackal and aardwolf. Day trips are not available.

Getting to Lalibela Game Reserve

Take the N2 towards Grahamstown. About 13 km after crossing the Bushman’s River look for a sign to Lalibela.

What Lalibela Game Reserve costs

Full-board rates are from R2 165 a person sharing. Specials are available for South African residents. Tel 041-581-8170, res@lalibela.co.za, www.lalibela.net.

Amakhala Game Reserve

A mere 40 minutes from Port Elizabeth’s airport, and neighbouring Addo, Amakhala Game Reserve is one of the more luxurious options for catching the Big Five as well as the more elusive hyena and bat-eared fox. Many of the animals have been introduced into the area as part of Amakhala’s efforts to re-establish the flora and fauna found here generations ago. The reserve offers six-hour safaris for day visitors, which includes a river cruise.

Getting to Amakhala Game Reserve

Take the N2 towards Grahamstown. After about 73 km look for signs to the reserve.

What Amakhala Game Reserve costs

Day visitors pay R980 a person (includes a game drive, river cruise and lunch). Overnight rates are from R1 750 at Quartermain’s Camp to R4 180 at the Bush Lodge. Specials available. Tel 046-636-2750, central-res@amakhala.co.za, www.amakhala.co.za.

Big Five near Durban

You’ll have to drive for a little longer than two hours to see the Big Five near Durban.

Hluhluwe-Umfolozi

The oldest proclaimed park in Africa, Hluhluwe-Umfolozi, is one of the only state-run parks in KwaZulu-Natal. In addition to black rhino, it has the largest white rhino population in the world, making it well worth the three-hour drive. Despite covering 96 000 hectares of hilly geography you can expect to see a variety of animals, even if you visit for just a day. Game-viewing options for visitors include self-drive, guided game drives and walks, as well as boat trips on Hluhluwe Dam. A number of lodges and camps cater for a range of budgets.

Getting to Hluhluwe-Umfolozi

From Durban take the N2 north for 220 km and turn left onto the R618 west.

What Hluhluwe-Umfolozi costs

Day visitors can choose between a three-hour game drive at R200 a person or a seven-hour option at R500 a person. Daily conservation fees of R110 an adult and R55 a child apply (unless you have a Wild Card) and overnight rates are from R480 a twosleeper unit a night. Tel 035- 562-0848 or 033-845-1000, email bookings@kznwildlife. com, www.kznwildlife.com.

Phinda Private Game Reserve

If you are looking for luxury then head to Phinda Private Game Reserve. Not open to day visitors, this reserve is home to the Big Five as well as antelope, nyala and 415 bird species. It’s also well known to be an excellent place to spot cheetah which are fitted with tracking devices to guarantee sightings. The landscape is a mix of woodlands, grassland, wetland, forest and mountains. Take it all in from a canoe bobbing along the Mzinene River.

Getting to Phinda Private Game Reserve

Follow the N2 from Durban and take the Phinda off-ramp and turn right onto a bridge. At the T-junction turn left onto gravel road, cross a railway line and turn immediately right.

What Phinda Private Game Reserve costs

Full-board from R3 995 a person a night. Tel 035-562-0271, www.phinda.com.

Big Five near Cape Town

Often thought to be on the wrong side of the country to easily catch the Big Five, this isn’t true, as there are several opportunities for a malaria-free safari in the Western Cape. The N1 is your road to Cape Town’s Big Five reserves. If you were feeling ambitious, you could tick off a number of bucket-list items in one go as you pass through the winelands to get to the reserves.

Aquila Private Game Reserve

Aquila Private Game Reserve made headlines in 2011 when poachers struck, killing several rhinos. Security has since been increased, with one recent visitor commenting that the four remaining white rhinos are very impressive, but appear to be under 24-hour armed guard. So you’ll feel paparazzi-like when snapping your photos of these animals and their bodyguards. Aquila is a family-friendly option with quad-biking and horse-riding safaris and attracts a number of day visitors. Although sold as free-roaming, seasoned game viewers may find the reserve has some zoo-like qualities, with buffalo being herded to watering holes and the seven lion kept in a separate smaller enclosure. But this does mean you’ll easily spot most of the Big Five, a good option if you don’t have much time.

Getting to Aquila Private Game Reserve

Travel 130 km from Cape Town on the N1 to Touws River, turn left onto the R46 to Ceres and look for Aquila on your left.

What Aquila Private Game Reserve costs

Day trips are R1 300 a person (include drinks, game drive and lunch). Overnight rates start from R2 095 a person a night sharing and include two game drives and lunch. Tel 0861-7373-783, res@aquilasafari.com, www.aquilasafari.com.

Inverdoorn Game Reserve and Safari Lodge

Inverdoorn Game Reserve and Safari Lodge, two-anda- half hours’ drive from Cape Town, is located near Ceres. At 10 000 hectares and with more than 1 200 animals, it’s a reasonably priced option for a day trip to see the Big Five. Some visitors have expressed disappointment at the confined nature of the game drives, where fences make it appear as if the animals are on display as you pass, but if you have only a little time to spare it’s worth it. Predators are kept in separate enclosures, meaning you’re bound to see each of the Big Five. Once you’ve ticked these animals off your list, you can also get up close to cheetah at the reserve’s cheetah rehabilitation programme.

Getting to Inverdoorn Game Reserve & Safari Lodge

From Cape Town take the N1 to Worcestor, turn left onto the R43, then right onto the R46 to Ceres. Continue through the town until you see a sign for the R355 to Calvinia and Sutherland. Turn onto the R355 dirt road and drive for 6 km before turning right onto the R356. Drive for 7,4 km until you reach a fork in the road. Take the left split and continue until you see Inverdoorn on your left.

What Inverdoorn Game Reserve & Safari Lodge costs

Game drives are from R780 a person (include welcome drinks). DB&B rates start from R1520 a person a night sharing. Tel 021- 434-4639, info@inverdoorn.com, www.inverdoorn.com.

Fairy Glen

For those with a strong aversion to long trips, the closest Big Five reserve to Cape Town is Fairy Glen, located an hour from the Mother City just past Worcester at the foot of the Brandwacht Mountains. Visitors to Cape Town’s only free-roaming Big Five private game reserve have the chance to see animals among fynbos and proteas unique to the Western Cape. Because of its close proximity to Cape Town, Fairy Glen’s organised day safari is very popular among day-trippers, but for those wanting to avoid the security of a 4×4, guided horseback tours are available in the game reserve, which touts itself as ‘Cape Town’s only free-roaming Big Five safari’.

Getting to Fairy Glen

Take the N1 from Cape Town to Worcester. In Worcester, turn left onto Brandwacht Road, following the signs to Fairy Glen. If Brandwacht Road is closed take the N1 to Worcester.

Go past the Shell Ultra City on your left and take the next off-ramp left. You will pass through two circles and get to a stop street. Turn right here and follow the signs to Fairy Glen.

What Fairy Glen costs

Day trips start from R1 225 a person and include breakfast and a buffet lunch. Overnight rates start from R1 850 a person a night sharing and include dinner, lunch, breakfast and a game drive. Kids between five and 12 years receive discounted rates. Tel 086-1244-348, reservations@fairyglen.co.za, www.fairyglen.co.za.

Spend more time on safari

Keep in mind that if you have only a day to spend looking for the Big Five, you may not find them, and don’t expect the same experience as a multi-day safari would offer. If you can, make the time and spend a little longer on your journey. Would you explore Angkor Wat, the Amazon, or the wild streets of New York in only one day?

It was an icy dawn and a layer of mist covered the mighty Umzimvubu River in Port St Johns. The constant rumble of waves pierced through the morning stillness as we loaded our kit onto the boat. We had to conquer the surf to get out to sea. Skipper Steve Benjamin gently nudged the boat off the river bank and squeezed into the queue, waiting for his turn to tackle the surf zone. ‘Right guys, lifejackets on, feet in the straps and hold on tight,’ he instructed, sporting his characteristic grin. As he turned around, though, his demeanour changed. It was business time. He surveyed the sizeable waves and a final rise onto his toes confirmed we were in the clear. Down went the throttle. We punched over some whitewash – our wetsuits getting soaked by the unpleasantly chilly water – and weaved our way out of the river mouth to the open ocean. ‘Welcome to the sardine run,’ Steve said, the grin returning to his face.

Recent rain had resulted in extensive river run-off, making the visibility in the water near the mouth terrible. ‘There’s not much point in hanging around here,’ Steve said as we started to meander down the coast, vigilantly on the lookout for signs of activity.

As an ichthyologist (one who studies fish) and seasoned sardine runner, Steve’s passion and understanding of all things salty is overwhelming. He’d been diligently following the sardine’s movements by studying the latest satellite forecasts on his iPhone.

‘Check this out,’ he said, pointing to a graph showing South Africa’s oceanic temperatures. ‘Sardines thrive in planktonrich water between 14 and 20 degrees Celsius – usually over here off the eastern Agulhas banks – but around May to July each year, a sliver of cold water penetrates northward between the coast and the warmer Mozambique current.’ A band of blue indicated this on the graph. ‘This expands their natural habitat and countless billions of sardines travel in this coldwater current, as far as the KwaZulu-Natal coast.’

A recent scientific publication suggests the sardine run is a spawning migration, facilitated by the prevailing winter weather conditions. An army of marine predators instinctively follows suit to gorge themselves in this short-lived time of plentiful food. The Wild Coast usually offers the best opportunity to catch a glimpse of this treacherous trip because the continental shelf drops off quickly, bringing the sardines closer inshore. ‘Poor sards – they’re on death row,’ quipped Steve.

Spotting a flock of bright-eyed Cape gannets hovering in the distance, Steve picked up the pace. ‘These birds have flown more than 500 kilometres from Bird Island near Port Elizabeth and are here for one reason only: to feast. They’re a telltale sign of any action in the water, so let’s stick with them.’

As we approached and the squawks of these seabirds grew louder, dolphins popped up next to the boat and rode the bow wave. Just as the gannets had, an estimated 20 000 long-beaked common dolphins had travelled to these waters from their southerly offshore hunting grounds and were almost ever-present along the entire coast. Capitalising on their inquisitive and playful moods, we slipped into the water with snorkelling gear. Peering into the depths with shards of sunlight piercing below the surface, we heard their squeaks, clicks and whistles long before we could see them. Out of the greenish water, pods of up to 20 whizzed cautiously close and swam in circles around us. Punctuated by moments of silence, the exhilaration would then happen all over again … and again … and again.

Back on the boat we sat with contented elation and refuelled with snacks from the Fat Gannet, the appropriately named cooler box. With the engines off, we drifted lazily, listening to the constant slop of water against the hull. That was until someone shouted ‘turtle’ or ‘sailfish’, pushing the rest of us into another whirl of excitement as we watched from the boat. Humpback whales were also on their annual migration north to mate and calve. They launched their 40-tonne bodies – equal to the weight of about 500 people – out of the water and came down with thunderous splashes. These shows of sensational aerial acrobatics seemed to happen in slow motion.

In contrast, gannets took to the skies and turned into fighter-plane mode in a flash. After a brief pause to line up their targets from up to 30 metres high they descended, achieving speeds of about 100 kilometres an hour, tucking in their angular wings as they hit the water. They’re highly adapted for this method of attack with air sacs under their skins to cushion the impact and binocular vision allowing them to judge distance accurately.

‘Game on. It looks like the sards are here,’ hailed Steve, firing up the engines. Here, there and everywhere the birds hurtled out of the sky and descended at once. In unison, we scrambled for our snorkel and camera gear as Steve manoeuvred the boat closer.

He slid in first to do a quick reccie. ‘The visibility isn’t great, but it’s decent enough. Come fast and follow my lead,’ he said. About four or five metres below the surface, large groups of small, silvery fish darted around trying to defend themselves against a 360-degree onslaught. In a hopeful attempt to confuse their attackers, they shoaled together forming tightly-knit groups, known as baitballs.

Using their sonar and intelligence, dolphins methodically slashed into these baitballs. One would carve smaller baitballs off the main body of fish, making it easier for another to attack and pick an individual fish with lethal accuracy and extraordinary skill. In all the chaos, gannets continued their aerial assault, unperturbed by our presence. If a fish wasn’t caught on entry, they persisted to depths far below my limit, using their wings and feet to swim underwater. After 20 seconds or so, they’d glide back to the surface, using the buoyancy of their feathers.

Most baitballs were a mixture of sardines and redeye round herring (a species similar in appearance to the sardine, but lacking the distinctive spots on its sides). Redeyes tend to move faster through the water and it took great effort to keep up with them. Scuba equipment would be too cumbersome, so we relied on snorkels.

When a baitball disappeared from view, there was only a short time to catch our breath before Steve had located another. It was during one of these intervals I looked down to see a copper shark rising swiftly from the deep and heading straight toward me. It got so close I even gave a kick, but it veered off at the last second, leaving me with a racing heart. I had turned from front-row spectator to on-stage actor in this spectacular story. It’s as close to a wildlife kill I’d ever been and probably as close as I’d ever want to get.

Along with braving the big surf launches and enduring full days of notoriously rough seas in a small boat without shade, I managed to catch a fever as well – sardine-run fever. As with many others I’d met around the bar, swapping sardine-run experiences (one American chap rambled on about how this was his 10th season returning without fail), I now suffer from an urge to follow these small silvery fish each year.

It’s always a gamble though, as weather conditions can be highly unpredictable and in some years the sardines pass by either too deep or too far offshore for observers to notice. Nevertheless, such a concentrated abundance of marine life and activity, coupled with an exquisite setting, is reason enough to be part of this oceanic tale. Perhaps next year I’ll see a static baitball in clear blue water.

Things to do if the weather turns bad in Port St Johns

It’s not called the Wild Coast for nothing. If there are rough weather days and you can’t make it out to sea, Port St Johns and its surrounds offers some special sightseeing as well.

Just out of town is a place called The Gap, where a section of the cliff has fallen into the sea but still remains connected to the mainland. After a steep descent using a ladder and a metal cable to lower yourself, there’s a blowhole in the rocks that sends spray towering into the skies with an outrageous force after a swell passes.

There are also numerous waterfalls to explore. Magwa Falls is a spectacle with its waters plummeting almost 150 metres into the gorge below. Further north, near Mkambati Nature Reserve, Waterfall Bluff cascades 60 metres into the Indian Ocean. Frazer Falls and Angel Falls are also well worth a visit.

Venture into the forests at Silaka Nature Reserve, which offers hiking trails and exceptional birding opportunities.

Almost every evening, we headed to nearby Port St Johns Airport (er, runway) to get some views of the area from the hilltop and catch the last glimpses of the setting sun, making sure we rehydrated after the day’s labours.

Follow the 2012 sardine-run action on Twitter

Follow all the action of the 2012 sardine run with Steve’s blow-by-blow account on Twitter @animalocean.

Getting to the sardine run

From Durban, take the N2 south and merge onto the R61 which passes Port St Johns, about 350 km from Durban.

Who to contact about the sardine run

Getaway experienced the 2011 sardine run with Animal Ocean, which will be offering trips from 5 June to 20 July 2012. Steve Benjamin, cell 079-488-5053, animaloceandiving@gmail.com, www.animalocean.co.za.

Apex Shark Expeditions will run trips from East London between 26 May and 2 June 2012. Chris Fallows, tel 021-786-5717, info@apexpredators.com, www.apexpredators.com.

African Ocean Charters offers day trips between 15 June and 31 July. Ant Diplock, cell 072-501-8302, www.africanoceancharters.co.za.

What we drove

The four-door Volkswagen Polo 1,4 Trendline handled the windy Eastern Cape roads with ease in both its acceleration and braking (you never know when a cow is lurking on the road around the corner). It comes with air-con and electric windows and had ample space for my diving kit. Hannes Oosthuizen, editor of CAR magazine, sums it up perfectly: ‘It’s very comfortable, spacious and economical.’

Black cotton soil caked our wheels. This may not mean anything to you, but wait until your vehicle’s tyres are covered in the stuff. We’d been caught in an unexpected downpour; torrential rain hit us from every angle and we could barely see out of the front windscreen, let alone navigate the roads. These weaved through the landscape split like braided rope, forcing us to choose almost at random. To cap it all, the mud on our wheels made keeping to any road tricky – the vehicle felt like a giraffe on ice. All in all we were nine-tenths lost and one tenth found as we pushed on towards Liuwa Plain National Park, in south-western Zambia.

The journey to Liuwa Plain isn’t for the uninitiated, and I wouldn’t recommend it to first time off-roaders. It’s challenging, even in dry conditions – in the wet it’s pure adventure. I won’t go into the details because the real story isn’t that the roads had been washed away or that numerous trees had fallen across the roads, making impenetrable barriers; or that bridges had collapsed; or even that some of the potholes would easily have engulfed a small car. That’s another story. The real story of Liuwa Plain is its spectacular wildlife.

The middle of nowhere

‘I must apologise if the fishermen wake you up in the morning. They start very early,’ said Kath, wife of our host, Craig Hay, who is the park’s operations manager and based at the main administration offices in Kalabo, about two hours from Liuwa Plain National Park itself.

The Luanginga River is a hub of activity in the early morning. The sun’s rays danced on the water’s surface and fishermen sang in unison as they drifted past my tent in long mekoro. Women from the fields walked up to the bank and waded across the river with baskets on their heads.

We too would have to cross this river. We filled the car with supplies, signed in at the park’s headquarters and crossed via a skadonk of a hand-drawn pontoon. From there, it took two hours to reach the park through thick woodlands and rural villages. Smiling children ran out to wave at us and dogs darted out and yapped at our wheels.

There are no towns with shops once you’ve left Kalabo (and Kalabo has no fuel stations – be sure to fill up in Mongu, two hours in the opposite direction.)

The special thing about Liuwa is that there aren’t many people around. The tough journey makes it a tricky destination to get to, so it’s never crowded. ‘It really feels like you’re going into unexplored territory when you come to Liuwa’, said Kath.

It was originally declared a royal hunting ground and game reserve by King Lubosi Lewanika in the 19th century. The people currently living in the park are descendants of the Lozi who were placed in the park by the king to act as custodians. At the height of the Angolan Civil War during the 1980s and 1990s, trophy hunters and poachers wiped out all its great herds and depleted most of its wildlife such as eland, wild dog and buffalo.

In 2003, African Parks together with the Zambia Wildlife Authority and the Barotse Royal Establishment, the traditional government of the Lozi people, translocated species back onto the plain to restore the balance. The poaching and trophy hunting stopped and the plains have become a flurry of birds and animals.

The great blue wildebeest herds returned to the plains in their thousands and Liuwa is now home to approximately 43 000 wildebeest. The annual migration of these animals is the second largest in the world, after the Masai Mara event. They make their way to the south of the 366 000-hectare reserve – a fraction of Kruger’s more than two million hectares – where there are dense grasslands just before the rains come in December.

Sprawling herds of wildebeest aren’t the only wildlife spectacle. There are also about 4 500 zebra, 1 300 red lechwe, 900 tssesebe, 74 eland, 20 roan antelope and plenty of oribi peeking out through the dense grasslands. Lion, cheetah and wild dog wander the plains and are carefully monitored by the Zambian Carnivore Programme.

There’s an impressive population of hyenas, which can often be found at the sporadic pans, lazing about in the water during the sweltering heat of the day.

‘It really feels like you’re going into unexplored territory when you come to Liuwa’, Kath said as we stopped at one of the pans for a sundowner.

Dark grey clouds rolled over our heads as two hyenas walked past us and ran off into the distance, chasing a large herd of wildebeest. Streaks of lightning flashed across the evening sky and grey crowned cranes sailed above. Besides the odd ilala palm and fig tree, the plains of Liuwa are pretty much flat. In only a few weeks, it would all be under water and the area becomes inaccessible in the rainy season.

Camping at its most rustic

There are four campsites set in dense woodland pockets. Katoyana was our base for the first two nights. A small thatched structure provided shade and the ablutions in rustic reed shelters came with a flush toilet and a cold shower.

Towering trees separate the campsite from the open plains. We heard of a hyena den with pups close by, but never found it and instead explored the area armed with binos and bird books. The rosy-throated longclaw was my favourite sighting: its red chest stuck out brightly, contrasted by the tan grasslands.

The next two nights were spent at Lyangu campsite in the southwestern corner of the reserve. As we arrived, the wind picked up, hastening the advance of the equatorial thunderstorm that moved over us.

The rain must have co-erced the snakes out of hiding. I had a close encounter with a long green snake, which slithered past my toes as I was brushing my teeth and a little brown guy tried to join me in the shower – I quickly insisted on a shower patrol and don’t recommend showering at night.

Exploring rural Zambia was an epic adventure and a thrilling experience that makes you feel part of a forgotten Africa. Liuwa Plain National Park is flourishing and teeming with wild game as a result of a passionate and dedicated team. There aren’t very many wilderness places left on Earth and perhaps the fallen trees and car-eating potholes will preserve this special slice of Africa for a little while longer.

Top sightings for twitchers at Liuwa Plain National Park

Zambia boasts abundant birdlife and you can spot some unusual species in the Liuwa region. Here are my top-five birding sights:

• Ross’s turaco
• Flocks of wattled crane
• Grey crowned cranes
• Rosy-throated longclaw
• Denham’s bustard

Lady Liuwa – a lonely lioness no more

Poaching and trophy hunting wiped out the lion population of Liuwa Plain National Park and for five years a sole lioness, Lady Liuwa, roamed the plains alone. The introduction of two males to mate with her were unsuccessful as she proved to be infertile. Two lionesses were released in December 2011, shortly after our visit. Read more about Lady Liuwa and her new pride on blog.getaway.co.za. To watch the documentary, The Last Lioness, go to tiny.cc/LadyLiuwa.

Getting to Liuwa Plain National Park

Driving to Liuwa will take some serious 4×4 skills if you leave it too late and, once the rains arrive, the roads can become impassable. We drove from Pretoria though Botswana and Namibia’s Caprivi Strip before entering Zambia and continuing on to Liuwa in the west. On the way back, we took another route via Livingstone, Victoria Falls and Bulawayo to Beitbridge border.

Useful contacts at Liuwa Plain National Park

African Parks manages Liuwa Plain National Park. Tel +26-097-961-1975, email liuwainfo@african-parks.org, www.african-parks.org.

The vehicle we used in Liuwa Plain National Park

You don’t need a 4×4 with all the latest technology to make this trip – we used a Toyota Prado, 2000 model – but your vehicle must have the following: four-wheel drive, low-range, differential lock and high clearance. If you’re planning to go in the wet season, we’d advise a diesel engine that doesn’t cut out when travelling through deep puddles. A snorkel would be advantageous, but not vital, to get through the deep puddles.

What you need to know about Liuwa Plain National Park

The park is inaccessible during the rainy season from January to May. At the time of going to press, R1 was equal to about R676 Zambian kwacha. While finding all of the roads can be hard, we would recommend Garmin’s Tracks for Africa and Map-Studio’s Southern and East Africa Road Atlas.

Where to stay en route to Liuwa Plain National Park

Nata Bird Sanctuary is a community-based wildlife project on Nata Pan, which forms part of the Makgadigadi Pans. It’s a rustic campsite with a small shop where you can buy only a few beverages. Camping and pan access costs R70 a person a night. Tel +267-7154-4342, www.natavillage.org.

Kabula Lodge is ideally situated on the M10 and is known for its phenomenal views of the Zambezi River. Camping costs R115 a person a night and chalets are from R600 to R900 each a night. Tel 082-672-5168, email info@kabula-lodge.com, www.kabulalodge.com.

Liuwa Plain National Park has four community campsites: Lyangu, Kwale, Sikale and Katoyana. Entry to the park costs US$40 (about R320) and camping is US$10 (about R80) a person a night. Tel +26-097-961-1975, email liuwainfo@african-parks.org, www.african-parks.org.

Travel to Liuwa Plain National Park with Getaway Adventures

Barbarian Barotseland (11 nights and 12 days) from 19 to 30 November 2012
This self-drive safari starts at Chobe Safari Lodge in Kasane (Botswana) and goes to Liuwa Plain via Kabula Lodge. Days are spent following the herds of wildebeest and looking for Lady Liuwa and her pride. Only 25 vehicles are allowed in the park each day, so book now to avoid disappointment. R6 500 a person based on seven vehicles with 14 adults. For more information, contact Christie on 021-530-3325, email christief@ramsaymedia.co.za or go to http://adventures.getaway.co.za/southern-africa/zambia/12-day-liuwa-plain-national-park-expedition/.

Join safari legend Robin Pope on an adventure to Liuwa Plain

Robin Pope Safaris offers a more luxurious option to the selfdrive bumble we endured. They run four- or five-night fly-in safaris in May, June, November and December. The exclusive luxury safari is based at private tented Matamanene Bushcamp. Packages start from R21 184* a person sharing for four nights and R26 480* a person sharing for five-nights. Rates include accommodation, all activities, bar, airport transfers, park fees and laundry. Internal and international flights and airport taxes aren’t included (a return flight from Johannesburg to Lusaka costs about R8 960). Tel +265- 177-0540/60, email info@robinpopesafaris.net, www.robinpopesafaris.net. *Subject to exchange-rate fluctuations

For more details on Christie’s 4×4 adventures through these parts of Southern Africa as well as details of the route the crew took to Zambia and back, go to tiny.cc/ChristiesBlog.

‘Did you see the lions?’ the young girl asked me, her face beaming with delight. I was getting used to this question and it seemed as if everyone I met was seeing the predators – except me.

‘They were just behind that bush,’ she explained. ‘I can’t believe you didn’t see them.’ She showed me the photos on her camera. ‘Look how close we were to them,’ she said with a giggle.

Her enthusiasm was infectious, yet I couldn’t help but feel a tinge of envy. I’d come to Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park to photograph its wildlife as part of my Year in the Wild project, and lions were near the top of my wish list. My camera with its 400-millimetre lens was permanently by my side, but after two weeks I still hadn’t seen a lion.

Every morning I’d woken early to leave camp as the gates opened. I had driven up and down the roads which follow the dry Nossob and Auob river beds. These ancient rivers flow only every few decades, when exceptional rains swamp the prodigious sands of the Kalahari.

During the heat of the day, I had stopped at boreholes that were drilled during the First World War to supply water to South African troops in case Germany invaded from South West Africa. Today, they serve as drinking points for thirsty animals, making them excellent places for wildlife viewing.

In the afternoon, hot and tired, I’d driven slowly back to camp, catching the last rays of a crimson sunset and timing my return with the closing of the gates. Every night, around the embers of a braai, my campsite neighbours would ask me the same question: ‘So, did you see the lions?’

I still hadn’t seen a lion, but Kgalagadi provided so much else to admire. Slowly, I started to realise they’re just one species in an amazing wilderness. And few people know it as well as Dr Gus Mills.

Huge and unique

Predator specialist Gus has spent his entire adult life studying brown and spotted hyena, cheetah, lion and wild dog. For 20 years he has lived in Kgalagadi, spending many nights tracking these creatures and learning their survival tactics.

‘This is one of the last true wilderness areas in the world,’ he told me, as we chatted in his office at Twee Rivieren Rest Camp. ‘There aren’t many places like this left on Earth.’

The region known as the Kalahari is the world’s largest continuous expanse of sand, stretching north from the Congo down through Angola and Zambia to the Northern Cape, and west from Namibia through Botswana to central Zimbabwe. Formed from ancient sands eroded from rocks created more than 250 million years ago during the time of Gondwanaland, the Kalahari is a massive geological feature on Earth’s surface.

In its southern reaches it encompasses Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, a cross-border conservation area that straddles the border between South Africa and Botswana. This southern part of the Kalahari isn’t a true desert, despite sometimes looking like one, especially at the end of a long, dry winter.

On the contrary, between 150 and 350 millimetres of rain falls most years and the Aeolian dunes (those formed by wind) are often covered in thick grass. More correctly perhaps, this region is a semi-desert. But it’s a poetic Setswana term that gives the region its name and hints at its essence: kgalagadi, meaning ‘great thirst-land’.

At 40 000 square-kilometres, Kgalagadi is huge – about twice as big as Kruger – and thousands of wild herbivores are able to move as they wish, following the grasses that sprout quickly from the dry sands after sporadic thunderstorms. ‘The park is unique because it covers such a large area,’ Gus elaborated. ‘That’s very important. It’s a remnant of the natural system that once occurred across the whole of Southern Africa, when large populations of nomadic animals were able to move freely.’

Unlike most other reserves in South Africa, which are entirely enclosed, the only fences in Kgalagadi are along the Namibian and South African border, as well as 100 kilometres east along the Botswana border from Twee Rivieren. But that’s where it ends: there are no fences along the Botswana and South African border, providing ample freedom for migratory herds of antelope and ungulates.

Surviving the thirst

Visitors will see sizable numbers of springbok, gemsbok, wildebeest, hartebeest and eland in the Nossob and Auob river beds – and giraffe, which was introduced several decades ago. The region doesn’t receive enough water to support elephant, zebra or buffalo. Even with the artificial boreholes, these animals wouldn’t be able to survive. Somewhat incredibly, though, if the boreholes were removed – a commonly-debated topic among locals – almost every animal species currently found here would still be able to survive indefinitely.

‘Every single animal that lives here – except wildebeest and giraffe – can live independently of drinking water,’ Gus explained. ‘The artificial boreholes have allowed wildebeest to become sedentary, rather than having to migrate. It’s unlikely that giraffe occurred here before the boreholes were drilled, but since they have been introduced they’re quite happy, as long as they’re supplied with water.’

It’s one of the things which makes the southwestern part of the Kalahari such a fascinating place. The park endures some of the highest daily temperatures and evaporation rates on the continent, while the rainfall is notoriously unpredictable. Yet animals such as gemsbok and springbok are still able to thrive.

When temperatures soar above 40 degrees, as they do in summer, gemsbok don’t need to sweat, thereby losing valuable moisture, to cool off. Instead, they allow their body temperature to rise to as much as 45°C, while keeping their brains cool with blood that has passed through a network of vessels called the carotid rete, something akin to a car’s radiator.

Other herbivores and birds such as ostrich have similar adaptions, while carnivores such as lion, leopard and cheetah receive most of their moisture from the blood and meat of their prey. Indeed, it’s the cheetah which Gus has been studying for the past six years, to see how these lithe cats cope with the tough conditions. The results are encouraging. There are roughly 350 cheetahs in the park. ‘It’s a very healthy, viable population. What’s also important is that there’s little human interference, so they behave in a natural way.’

The wide, flat surfaces of the dry riverbeds make an excellent habitat for these cats, which prefer hunting in open areas. ‘The Auob River is one of the best places in Africa to see cheetahs hunting. It’s a very narrow river bed, and if the cheetahs are around, you’re bound to see them.’ The Nossob River is also a good spot, but because it’s much wider, it’s harder to see the big cats. During his research, Gus was surprised to discover that cheetah males form coalitions specialising in hunting sub-adult gemsbok, an antelope which can weigh close to 300 kilograms and whose rapier horns can slice an adult cheetah clean open.

‘It’s always a titanic struggle. It’s not easy for the 40- kilogram cheetahs to kill such a big animal and it’s only by co-operating in a group that they’re able to do it – a single cheetah simply doesn’t have the strength to kill one. Basically they have to hold the gemsbok’s head down to immobilise the horns. Then they eat from the chest, while it’s alive. It’s quite gruesome, but it’s nature.’

However, the cheetah’s main prey, Gus discovered, is the dainty steenbok, which, interestingly, hardly ever ventures into the river beds. Instead, it prefers the thousands of square-kilometres of dune habitat that cover most of Kgalagadi. Here it’s easier to hide from preying eyes.

‘The river beds are an integral part, but they make up only a small part of the system. The dunes are by far the biggest component of Kgalagadi.’

It’s in the vast dune fields, dotted with natural pans, that most of the drama unfolds, often unseen by human eyes. Here the grasses are more nutritious, as the pans contain valuable minerals that herbivores crave. With his studies, Gus has been fortunate to witness some spectacular animal interactions that take place far from any of the main roads.

‘One of the most memorable things I ever saw was a brown hyena at an ostrich nest with 26 eggs. It ate seven of the eggs, then spent the rest of the night carrying the others in different directions to store under bushes and clumps of grass.’

As for the lions? I asked Gus about where I should look for them. He laughed. ‘There are about 150 lions on the South African side of the park, which is huge of course. Because of the semi-desert environment, they exist at a low density compared to places such as Kruger. And they move all over, not only in the river beds, so it’s purely luck if you see them.’

I asked him about the famed black manes of the Kalahari lions. ‘That’s a bit of a myth,’ he said. ‘The manes of the lions here aren’t any darker than the ones elsewhere in Africa.’ And are they bigger, as some say? ‘Nope, but I can understand why people think that. When they’re standing on the crest of a dune, silhouetted against the sky, they do look big.’

He’s had some close shaves with lions. On a research trip in the 1970s to an area known as Gemsbok Plain, he slept under the stars next to his bakkie and woke up in the night to see a huge male lion standing at the foot of his sleeping bag. ‘There was a brief moment when we stared at each other, and I wasn’t sure how things would turn out,’ Dr Mills reminisced. ‘I shouted something unprintable and the lion walked away. Then when he was a few metres away, he roared. It was a magnificent sound, if rather terrifying.’

Denizens of the dunes

It’s also in the dunes that Kgalagadi’s hidden mysteries are revealed, perhaps less dramatic than large predators, but nevertheless equally fascinating if you know what to look for.

At the private !Xaus Lodge, in the southwest of the park, visitors are treated to a walk through the dunes, guided by a local Bushman. (The symbol ‘!’ denotes a palatal click in the Nama language, but for those who can’t master the click, !Xaus is pronounced ‘kaus’.)

Owned by the local Khomani San and Mier people, !Xaus is set on the edge of a massive pan, 30 kilometres southwest of the main road between Twee Rivieren and Mata Mata. As with the small wilderness camps in the rest of the park, there are no fences and guests are advised to stick to the boardwalks while in camp.

Early one morning, I set out with guides Hannes van Wyk and Pieter Jacobs. We didn’t walk far, perhaps only two kilometres, and we didn’t see any lions, hyenas, leopards or cheetahs, but it soon became apparent that Kgalagadi contains some fascinating details in seemingly uninteresting things.

First up was the ubiquitous tsamma melon, which comprises 90 per cent water. These watermelon-type fruit dot the dunes and provide moisture to many animal species. ‘Gemsbok kick them open with their hooves,’ Hannes explained as he cut one open with his knife, ‘Even brown hyena are known to eat them.’ Hannes gave me some of the juicy flesh to eat. It was cool and refreshing, and tasted a bit like watermelon. ‘These will save your life if you’re lost in the Kalahari,’ he told me.

Fortuitously, tsamma melons ripen precisely when animals – and humans – need the moisture most, during the dry midwinters, when all surface water has long since evaporated.

Then Hannes dug up the root of a gemsbok cucumber. He sliced a piece off and gave it to me to taste. I immediately spat it out. Hannes and Pieter laughed. ‘Bitter, hey?’ Hannes chuckled. ‘To other animals, it’s valuable because it’s 40 per cent water. They can handle the taste better than us.’ Because the root is so bitter, antelope tend to eat only part of it, leaving the rest on the ground. It then regrows, extending its tendrils even further across the dune.

Then there’s the seemingly boring dune grass, or duinriet. ‘This may be the Kalahari’s most important species,’ Hannes postulated. ‘Its root systems are up to five metres long to tap the moisture below. The roots stabilise the dunes and stop strong winds from blowing away the sand. This allows other plants and trees to take root, which means there’s food for all herbivores. Without this grass, the Kalahari would probably be covered in moving sand dunes, without nearly as much life.’

Much to admire

Over the next week, I was treated to even more wonders. First, a cheetah mother and her three cubs crossed the road in front of my Ford. The windy conditions had made her skittish, and she quickly led her brood behind a dune. Then a honey badger scampered past me on its way to its burrow alongside the road. Usually, these tough animals are seen only at night.

The next day, I chanced upon a secretary bird catching a snake. The bird stamped on the serpent with its long legs, and promptly swallowed it whole.

At one of the waterholes, I spotted a martial eagle in a nearby tree, about three metres from my car. Other birds such as pale chanting goshawk, lanner falcon, tawny eagle, white-backed vulture and spotted eagle-owl are common; Kgalagadi hosts one of the most diverse and healthy populations of raptors in Africa.

Driving back home, it occurred to me that I had forgotten about the lions. Everyone else had seen them, but they had eluded me. Was I just unlucky?

It didn’t seem to matter now. I had lost myself in the myriad other species and their interactions.

Besides, every evening I had gazed at the wondrous stars of the cold, clear, Kalahari sky and listened to the piercing calls of nearby black-backed jackals. I had fallen asleep in the middle of an immense arid wonderland, where modern man is just a visitor and nature carries on, as it has for millions of years. I had been very lucky indeed.

Getting to Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park

The park straddles South Africa and Botswana, and borders Namibia. Visitors can enter the park from any of these countries. This travel planner focuses on the South African side of the park.

For information on accommodation and camping on the Botswana side, tel +267-580-0774, email dwnp@gov.bw, tiny.cc/BotswanaParks.

The most popular entry point is in the south at the Botswana/South Africa border at Twee Rivieren (or what Botswana calls Two Rivers). The best way to get here is to drive north from Upington in South Africa along the tarred R360 for about 250 km.

Tourists entering and leaving the park via the same country aren’t required to carry passports, but if you enter the park from one country and leave the park through another, your passport must be stamped at Twee Rivieren (South Africa side) and Two Rivers (Botswana side), as this is the only border control in the park. Visitors who enter from Namibia into South Africa at Mata Mata must stay in the park for at least two nights.

Where to stay at Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park

The three main camps on the South African side are Twee Rivieren, Nossob and Mata-Mata. These fenced camps are the biggest in the park and offer visitors various accommodation options. Prices range from R155 for a campsite (two people) to R1 275 for a family chalet (six people).

The unfenced wilderness camps at Grootkolk, Gharagab, Kalahari Tented Camp, Urikaruus, Kieliekrankie, and Bitterpan are smaller, more isolated, but still comfortable and wellequipped. There’s no electricity or conventional plug points to power laptops or cameras. Prices are from R945 to R1 215 a two-sleeper chalet.

The beautiful !Xaus Lodge is privately owned by the Mier and San communities in the southwestern corner of the park and is operated by Transfrontier Park Destinations as a concession. R3 100 a person a night sharing. Special rates for two-night stays for SADC residents from R1 950 a person a night sharing. Rates include transfers from Kamqua Picnic Site, all meals and all activities. Tel 021-701-7860, email info@xauslodge.co.za www.xauslodge.co.za.

Gates entry times at Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park

Gates times change, depending on the season. Visit the SanParks website for details.

Who to contact at Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park

Main reservations, tel 012-428-9111, email reservations@sanparks.org, www.sanparks.org. Twee Rivieren Rest Camp, tel 054-561-2000, email dupele@sanparks.org.

Hyena Nights, Kalahari Days

Read about Dr Gus Mills and his wife Margie’s remarkable experiences in Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park in their book Hyena Nights, Kalahari Days. For 12 years they studied the brown and spotted hyenas of the park. To purchase a copy, go to www.jacana.co.za. Also, look out for Gus’ new guide to Kgalagadi Transfrontier Park, due for release mid-2012.

Each year cyclists from across the world gather in Cape Town to ride the 110-kilometre ‘Argus’, which is the largest individually timed cycling event in the world. This year the race takes place on Sunday, 11 March.

Starting in the city centre in the early hours of the morning, cyclists travel along the M3 towards Boyes Drive with its steep descent into Kalk Bay. From there, the coastal stretch includes Simon’s Town, Scarborough, Kommetjie and Noordhoek and finally racers will climb Chapman’s Peak before cruising along the coast to the finish line in Green Point.

To help you to make the most of your Cape Town stay, we’ve sourced these must-dos and put together a comprehensive list of things do along the route.

Kalk Bay

The colourful and thriving Kalk Bay Harbour bustles daily as members of the local fishing community go out in their traditional boats hoping for a good catch. The harbour is also a favourite because of the popular lunch spot, Kalky’s, which serves some of the best fish and chips in Cape Town at an affordable price. Tel 021-788-1726.

Kalk Bay Books, an independent bookstore with a view over False Bay, has a unique selection of handpicked fiction and non-fiction books. It often hosts book launches and other events that locals frequent and can become quite busy, especially over weekends. Tel 021-788-2266.

In the Tin Pan Alley off Main Road, The Cook’s Room is filled with retro pieces, collectables, gifts and even silverware and crockery. You can spend ages sorting through the vintage bits and bobs. Tel 021-788-6348.

Kalk Bay reef has a left-point break, which is popular with surfers and body-boarders alike. If you’re not up for the challenge, chill at the Brass Bell and watch them take on the waves. Tel 021-788-5455.

The four-kilometre hiking trail to Kalk Bay Caves starts directly above the harbour (at the Echo Valley sign on Boyes Drive). The caves are safe to explore and well ventilated, but take torches.

Explore Kalk Bay’s Main Road by foot. Pop into any number of the quirky, retro and bohemian stores to peruse their wares and make sure you stop at Ice Café for ice-cream with flavours such as blueberry and cream and ginger and cinnamon. Tel 021-788-4816.

Simon’s Town

Visit Jubilee Square and have your photo taken alongside the statue of Able Seaman Just Nuisance. The famous Great Dane was the only dog ever to be enlisted in the Royal Navy.

Take a guided tour of Boulders Beach penguin colony on the road out of Simon’s Town. You can swim or picnic on the beach that is home to about 3 000 African penguins. Daily conservation fees apply. Tel 021-786-2329.

Enjoy a cruise from Simon’s Town and take in all the beautiful scenery and rich history on one of various guided trips. Tel 083-257-7760, www.boatcompany.co.za.

You could spend hours wading through and buying semi-precious gemstones at the Scratch Patch, which is especially great for keeping kids occupied. Tel 021-786-2020, www.scratchpatch.co.za.

Admire the preserved buildings on the Historic Mile Walk, which follows St George’s Street (the main road) from the railway station to the east dockyard gates. This walk captures the history of Simon’s Town from 1741, when the Dutch East India Company first used the spot at a winter anchorage. Tel 021-786-4404, www.simonstown.org.

Depart from Simon’s Town and kayak around the False Bay area. The most popular trip is a visit to Boulders Beach to see the penguins. Tel 021-782-9356.

Simon’s Town Golf Club is a nine-hole course nestled between Boulders and Fisherman’s beaches. Facilities include a bar, braai area and putting green. Tel 021-786-1233.

Hike in Silvermine Nature Reserve for stunning views over the coast. Ample parking is available off Ou Kaapse Weg and there are picnic spots around a reservoir. Daily conservation fees apply. Tel 021-422-2816.

Scarborough and Kommetjie

Scuba Shack offers shore dives around the peninsula. Choose from kelp, wreck or reef diving or go snorkelling with seals. Tel 021-785-6742, www.scubashack.co.za.

The Cape Point Table Mountain National Park has many short walking routes as well as a two-day, 34-kilometre hiking trail. Tel 021-780-9526, www.sanparks.org.za or www.capepoint.co.za

On Plateau Road, the Good Hope Gardens Nursery and Farm Stall has hundreds of indigenous species. The farm stall sells local produce, surfing equipment, gifts and art and you can choose from a wide selection of foods for a picnic in the playground. Tel 021-780-9299.

Red Rock Tribal is an unusual curio shop and well worth visiting to browse the extensive collections of crafts by local artists. Tel 021-780-9127, www.redrocktribal.co.za.

Scarborough Beach is a quiet, sandy stretch of coastline just outside the Cape Point Table Mountain National Park. It’s great for surfing and strolling.

Visit Slangkop Lighthouse, one of the oldest and the tallest cast-iron lighthouses on the South African Coast. Tel 021-783-1717.

Experience the vibrance of Masiphumelele township life with a tour of the spaza shops, shebeens, barber shops, schools, cultural centre and support the local artists. Nomthunzie Tours, tel 083-982-5692, email nomthunzie@gmail.com.

Imhoff Farm in Kommetjie is great for a family day out. It offers delicious organic produce, animal interaction (including camel rides and a snake park) and horse rides on the nearby beach. Tel 021-783-4545, www.imhofffarm.co.za.

Harry Goemans Garden Centre is primarily a gardening shop, but you can relax in the garden with a cup of tea and cake or lunch at The Wild Camphor while the kids play. Tel 021-785-3201, www.harrygoemans.com.

Cape Point Vineyards in Noordhoek is the only wine estate in the world located on a narrow strip of peninsula. Stop in to taste the wines or arrange to picnic overlooking vineyards and a beach in the distance. Tel 021-789-0900, www.noordhoekvineyards.co.za.

Top spectator spots for the Argus

David Bellairs, CEO of the Cape Town Cycle Tour Trust, highlights some of the places fans can gather to show their support. Look out for detailed information on road closures and parking facilities from mid-February on www.cycletour.co.za.

The start in Hertzog Boulevard: If you’re not travelling by car, hop onto the MyCiti bus, which will drop you off right where you need to be (tiny.cc/MyCiti). There’s an awesome vibe and it’s a rare sight to see so many cyclists together.

Newlands Forest: This area is accessible from the east side of the M3, as well as the pedestrian subway at the Parks and Forest area. Paradise Road (near Paradise Motors): This point is accessible from Main Road, Claremont, and is a good place to view cyclists as they speed down the hill and start climbing Edinburgh Drive.

Edinburgh Drive (up to the top of Wynberg Hill): The steepest gradient of the Cycle Tour will give you the chance to cheer and inspire cyclists as they struggle up the first climb of the route.

Fish Hoek: The traffic circle and Main Road in the centre of town always attract large crowds of supporters.

Glencairn Beach: There is pedestrian access to the Glen Ridge side with large lawns opposite the beach. Otherwise, make your way to Southern Right Hotel or Dixie’s Restaurant.

Simon’s Town Main Road: Jubilee Square has been a firm spectator favourite for years and always has a great vibe.

Scarborough: Gain access to Main Road on foot or watch the action from one of the pubs or restaurants along the road.

Noordhoek Farm Village: Access this area of Main Road on foot or relax at any of the pubs or restaurants on the roadside.

Hout Bay (corner Princess and Main Road): Take a stroll down to Main Road (M65) and give the cyclists a final boost before they hit the dreaded Suikerbossie.

Suikerbossie: It may not be the toughest hill on the route, but many participants dread this climb. They’re tired and need all the encouragement they can get. Suikerbossie – all the way from the bottom circle to the top before Llandudno – is a perfect vantage point.

Camps Bay: Relax at one of the many beachfront restaurants or on the beach.

Sea Point: Thrills are aplenty at the sharp left turn from Victoria Road into Queens Road. A pedestrian bridge allows you to cross the road.

Green Point: Make your way to the Promenade to watch the cyclists breaking into their final sprint to the finish and witness all the emotion and high drama, typical of the Cycle Tour finish line.

Tips for Argus riders from Adele Ta it, editor of Ride

• Make sure your bike is in good working order. At the very least the brakes need to be checked and the gears set. Don’t wait until the last minute to visit a bike shop.
• Tyres need to be inspected for cracks or holes. If they’re in a reasonable condition, the most effective way to avoid punctures is to make sure they’re inflated to the correct pressure.
• On the race, take along a spare tube, tyre levers and a CO2 cartridge (commonly known as a bomb) with an adaptor for your tubes.
• Apply sunblock before your ride and carry more with you. Apply to your lips, the tops of your ears and your neck, as well as your forearms and the backs of your knees. If you’re not riding in a cycling-specific shirt, your lower back may be exposed so put sunblock on that patch too.
• If you haven’t used energy products before, the safest bet is to fill your bottles with half water and half Coke, and make sure you drink Powerade and Coke at the water tables. Water alone is not a good idea, because it won’t replace the electrolytes lost through sweat and that could cause cramps.
• What you eat for breakfast will set the tone for the rest of the day. Don’t skip it.
• A good pair of shorts that fit almost too tightly will ease any discomfort and shammy or bum cream will also help.
• Nose blowing, talking on your phone, undoing the zip of your shirt and having a conversation with your friends next to the road is best done when you’re stationary.
• Don’t forget your start card. Even experienced cyclists have been refused entry to their start pens without this little slip of paper. It’s part of the documentation issued with your race number and easily missed among the stickers for the photographers and other instructions.

Argus race dos and don’ts

Don’t

• Buy new equipment or clothing to use for the first time at the race.
• Leave it to the last minute to do any major bike repairs or maintenance.
• Get drunk the night before.

Do

• Ride for about four hours the week before (easy rides with some harder, faster bits).
• Take an easy, hour-long final ride the day before the race.
• Collect your race number in good time.
• Have an early night for a day or two before the race.
• Eat a good breakfast two hours before the start.
• Apply sunblock and stretch before starting the race.
• Cyclists’ checklist
• Sufficient carbohydrate drinks
• Ride snacks
• Sunscreen
• Race number pinned on your clothing
• Helmet, gloves and sunglasses
• A pump, spare inner tubes and puncture-repair kit
• Medical emergency number. Tel 021-434-1199

Where to Carbo-load for the Argus

Typical Italian fare such as pizza and pasta is generally a popular choice, so here are some places to get your fix:

Primi Piatti has a vibey atmosphere and delicious pizza, pasta and burgers, and has branches throughout Cape Town. www.primi-piatti.com.

Enjoy mouth-watering pizza and pasta in one of several branches of Col Cacchio. www.colcacchio.co.za.

Bacini’s, in Kloof Street, Gardens, has been serving pizza daily for more than 15 years. Tel 021-423-6668.

Bardelli’s is a casual and comfortable Italian restaurant in Kenilworth. Tel 021-683-1423.

Magica Roma in Pinelands has an excellent reputation for serving authentic Italian food. Booking is essential. Tel 021-531-1489.

There are two branches of Borruso’s, in Rondebosch and Kenilworth. Both are popular, so you may have to wait for a table. Tel 021- 689-1756 or 021-761-5822.

Nonna Lina in Orange Street in the CBD is a favourite among locals. Tel 021-424-4966, www.nonnalina.com.

Il Leone Mastrantonio in Green Point offers high-end Italian dining with an extensive menu. Tel 021-421-0071, www.gruppomastrantonio.com.

The Pasta Factory in Gardens, Cape Town churns out yummy dishes all day long. Tel 021-423-3003, www.pastafactory.co.za.

Carbo-loading tip:

Many athletes have pasta dinners the night before the big event, but don’t overdo it. Eating too much may affect performance, as your digestive system struggles to process the food. Go for tomato-based sauces rather than rich, creamy sauces that are high in fat.

Bike sales and repairs in Cape Town

Bowman Cycles, 153 Bree Street, Cape Town. Tel 021-423-2527, www.bowmancycles.co.za
Action Cycling, 30 Waterkant Street, Cape Town. Tel 021-425-6831, www.actioncycling.com
Revolution Cycles, 171 Bree Street, Cape Town. Tel 021-423-5191, www.revolutioncycles.co.za
Bicycle Maintenance Company, 3 Aubrey Street, Salt River. Tel 021-448-4692, www.bicyclerepairs.co.za
The Epic Bike Shop, 39 Constantia Road, Plumstead. Tel 087-802-5959, www.epicbikeshop.co.za
Cycle Factory, Unit S29 Spearhead Business Park, Montague Drive, Montague Gardens. Tel 021-552-8285, www.cyclefactory.co.za
Lifecycle, Shop 19, Lifestyle Centre, Parklands. Tel 021-557-4660, www.lifecyclesa.co.za
Cycle Teknix, 145 Blaauwberg Road, Table View. Tel 021-556-8207, www.cycleteknix.co.za

Cycling race dates to diarise

• 3 to 4 March Cape Argus Pick n Pay Mountain Bike Challenge, www.mtbchallenge.co.za
• 1 to 3 March Columbia Grape Escape, www.grapeescape.co.za
• 8 to 10 March Cape Argus Lifecycle Expo, www.cycletourexpo.co.za
• 10 March Tricycle and Junior Tour, www.juniortour.co.za

Think Bike

Think Bike’s mission is to make the roads safer for two- and three-wheelers by increasing awareness of cycling safety among all road users and encouraging the use of protective gear among bikers. www.thinkbike.co.za.

All great road trips start with a wrong turn. At least that’s what I told myself when I picked the wrong road and ended up stuck in the frustrating crawl of Friday afternoon traffic on the N1. I was being thwarted in my escape on the great open road to our northern neighbour.

My boyfriend, Joe, and I needed a break, but instead of letting not much leave and not much money constrain us, we planned a road trip of epic proportions. As it turns out, there’s a lot you can experience on a budget over 10 days in southern Namibia. We hung out with wild desert horses, were attacked by birds, drank a lot of beer around campfires, went sandboarding, took a trip in a hot-air balloon over the desert, camped out under the stars, ate world-famous apple pie in a roadside oasis, drank Weissenbock among eisbein-eating Germans in a brauhaus, got lost in a ghost town engulfed by sand, and drove (a lot).

Namibia has some of the best gravel roads in the world, so we stuck to the back routes wherever possible to really do the road trip justice. After speeding through the dorp-and-spring-bloom-littered Northern Cape, and making an easy border crossing at Vioolsdrif, we turned off the highway and onto dirt.

Our introduction to Namibia was through the other-worldy lunar landscape of Ai-Ais/Richtersveld Transfrontier Park, where a drive alongside the Orange River revealed nothing but quiver trees, a couple of dassies and rocks for miles. After setting up camp under a nest of sandwich-stealing sociable weavers in the peaceful Klein Aus Vista campsite, about 200 kilometres north of Ai-Ais, we went in search of the famous wild horses. The mission was short-lived because framed against the setting sun and plains, these beautiful creatures were congregated around a waterhole on the B4, just a short distance from where we’d camped. Like a scene from the movie Dances with Wolves it was just us, the wilderness, the sound of the wind in the grass and a herd of feral horses.

Namibia is one of the least populated countries in the world, a fact that’s easily believed when travelling on its back roads. You can sometimes drive for hours without passing another being, occasionally spotting a lone ostrich on the ochre horizon. The antidote to modern city living is a trip to this country – nowhere else have I experienced such a sense of peace.

Even in the towns you get a feeling of isolation. Lüderitz is eerily quiet on a Sunday, almost as deserted as Kolmanskop, the famous ghost town a few kilometres into the desert. Kolmanskop was established in pretty much the middle of nowhere in 1908 following the discovery of diamonds. Half a century ago, it was abandoned when bigger gems were found further south at Oranjemund. The shells of houses slowly being swallowed by desert sands are both creepy and photogenic. The bowling alley, dusty and grey, with bowling pins still at the end of the lanes, is a perfect setting for a ghostly horror movie. It made me think of the transience of life and impermanence of human existence in the face of nature … until a group of teenage tourists in a rusting bathtub started singing at the tops of their voices, putting an end to my philosophical moment.

The best drive on the 4 600-kilometre trip was from Lüderitz to NamibRand Nature Reserve on the D707 and C27 (D826), said to be among the most scenic roads in the country. Straight, red and dusty, the roads bordering the Namib-Naukluft National Park are surrounded by mountains and silvery swathes of grassy plains punctuated with terracotta dunes. And silence: we passed only a few cars on the three-hour drive.

One of the best ways to experience the Namib, purportedly the world’s oldest desert, is by walking. Tok Tokkie Trails offers two-night, three-day trails in the vast 172 000-hectare, private NamibRand Nature Reserve on the edge of Namib- Naukluft. Knowledgeable guide Mike Godfrey led us through golden grass, over apricot dunes and under giant sociable weavers’ nests, all the while talking about the Namib and its adapted flora and fauna. At one point, after climbing a dune, we looked out on a vista of grassy plains and endless desert, as Mike pointed out that this landscape hadn’t changed in millions of years.

While the walks were fascinating, going to sleep was the best part of the trail. We reached camp at dusk and were shown to an open-air bedroom: camp beds surrounded by paraffin lamps. After drinks and snacks, we sat down to a delicious threecourse meal prepared by a chef before tucking ourselves into thick bed rolls, warmed with hot-water bottles. I fell asleep staring at the stars and woke up just before dawn, watching the sky slowly lighten. I’ll go back to Namibia just to do that again.

The day after the hike, we shared the desert with throngs of tourists at Sossusvlei and Dead Vlei, two of Namibia’s most popular attractions. The crowds didn’t detract from the magic of a sea of dunes stretching to infinity, the incongruity of a vlei filled with water surrounded by miles of sand, cracked mud puzzle pieces (surprisingly cool to the touch) and stark spokes of dead trees cutting into an impossibly clear blue sky. Avoiding the masses at Dune 45, we climbed one of the others and sat up there alone for ages, shooting hundreds of photos, with only the sand-carrying wind disturbing the stillness.

A hot-air balloon ride over the Namib may be pricey, but it’s a once-in-a-lifetime experience on many a bucket list (I’ve now ticked it off mine). Taking off at dawn, we watched the sun rise over Namib-Naukluft, drifted over dunes that look like playdough and startled ant-like gemsbok. You get a completely different perspective of the vastness of the desert landscape from the air, and when the gas burners are off, a contemplative hush of awe falls on the camera-wielding tourists in the basket. Upon landing after a magical flight, a lavish Champagne breakfast of zebra salami, smoked salmon and freshly baked croissants is served at the foot of undulating dunes.

We left Sossusvlei for Swakopmund and couldn’t drive past the desert oasis of Solitaire without sampling what is said to be the best apple pie in Namibia. Solitaire general dealer manager and baker extraordinaire Moose McGregor was doling out hefty slices of his pie, which were indeed scrumptious.

Driving into Swakopmund, with its quaint colonial buildings, felt like arriving in Germany in winter, especially as the temperature had dropped a good 20 degrees from Sossusvlei. The smell of the sea after days of baked desert air ignited a craving for seafood, so we splashed out on tapas, oysters and wine at Jetty 1905, a welcome respite from camping food. The restaurant is built on the end of the pier and you can (rather disconcertingly) peer down at the ocean waves through glass panels in the floor while eating tempura prawns. With the seafood craving still strong the following night, we headed to another of Swakop’s well-known eateries, The Tug, for a smorgasbord of sole, prawns and oysters.

You’re going to be labelled a wussy if you visit this area without trying one of the myriad adventure activities on offer. We chose sandboarding over skydiving, quad biking and horse riding, which turned out to be rather a lot of fun, despite the fact that I spent most of the time on my bum. The day ended with a couple of pints of Camelthorn Weissenbock microbrewery beer at Swakopmund Brauhaus among ale-swilling Germans, an activity that’s not to be missed on a trip to Swakopmund.

Our visit ended all too quickly and we started the journey back to Cape Town. After 900 kilometres to Ai-Ais, we hit tar at Rehoboth and ploughed along the incredibly straight and unremarkable B1 for what seemed like eternity. Just beyond Keetmanshoop, we turned onto a gravel road and headed for Fish River Canyon. Despite being mistakenly proclaimed the second biggest canyon in the world (it’s in the top 10 though), it’s still spectacular. It’s humbling to perch on the edge of the vast crevasse cut into the earth, as you consider your tiny place in the big universe.

As dusk turned the Huns Mountains purple, we joined hikers returning from the gruelling Fish River Canyon trail in the hot springs at Ai-Ais Restcamp.

We left Namibia the same way we came in, driving past quiver trees in dawn light to Vioolsdrif, our car filthy, memory cards full and bucket lists closer to completion. We felt like we’d been away for months: having driven so far, done so much, pondered the nature of the universe and drunk a lot of beer.

Weeks later, I still found grains of fine Namib sand in clothes and shoes – a welcome reminder in the midst of a busy city life that the vast landscapes, open skies and enormous desert silence of Namibia are still there, ready for the next visitors in need of an escape.

Top 10 Namibian experiences

1. Go hot-air ballooning over the Namib Desert.
2. Join Tok Tokkie on a three-day walking trail in NamibRand.
3. Visit the iconic Sossusvlei and Dead Vlei.
4. Wander through the eerie ghost town of Kolmanskop.
5. Take a slow drive along the scenic D707 and C27 (D826).
6. Search for the wild horses of Garub Pan, near Aus.
7. Get the adrenaline pumping with sandboarding in Swakop.
8. Visit the Fish River Canyon and the hot springs at Ai-Ais.
9. Sample a pint of Camelthorn microbrewery beer.
10. Indulge in Namibia’s best apple pie in Solitaire.

Driving to Namibia from Cape Town

From Cape Town, take the N7 north to the border at Vioolsdrif. From Johannesburg, take the N14 and then the N10 to the border post at Nakop.

What you need to know about Namibia

• South Africans don’t need visas to visit Namibia. The Namibian dollar is pegged to the rand, which makes travelling easy, and rands are widely accepted.
• Food in Namibia is generally more expensive than in South Africa, so we brought most of our food from home, buying fresh produce when needed.

Tours and adventures in Namibia

Buy a permit and take a fascinating guided tour of Kolmanskop with Ghost Town Tours, Lüderitz. Costs R55 a person. Tel +264-63-204-031, email kolmans@iafrica.com.na.

Take a hot-air balloon flight over the desert with Namib Sky Balloon Safaris. Costs R3 959 a person and includes pick up and drop off from several hotels and campsites near Sossusvlei, and a Champagne breakfast. Tel +264-63-683-188, email info@namibsky.com, www.namibsky.com.

Alter Action offers half-day sandboarding trips at R350 a person (includes transport, lunch and beer). The easier option is lie-down boarding at R250 a person. Tel +264-64-402-737, email info@alter-action.info, www.alteraction.info.

Where to eat in Namibia

Book ahead at Swakopmund Brauhaus for dinner (think hearty German favourites, such as eisbein) or enjoy Camelthorn and German beers at the bar. Tel +264- 64-402-214, email sb@africaonline.com.na, www.swakopmundbrauhaus.com.

In peak tourist season (July and August) you’ll need to book at least a week in advance for dinner at The Tug, Swakopmund’s well-known seafood restaurant. Tel +264-64-402-356, www.the-tug.com.

Jetty 1905, a restaurant at the end of the pier in Swakopmund, serves tapas, sushi and fantastic seafood, and has a decent wine selection. Go in the late afternoon to catch the sunset. Tel +264-64-405-664.

For baked treats, bread and light lunches on the road, stop at Solitaire, on the junction of the C14 and C24 between Sossusvlei and Swakopmund. Don’t forget to try the world-famous apple pie.

Where to stay in Namibia

Kamieskroon Hotel is a great spot to stay if you’re driving to Namibia from Cape Town. It has simple, comfortable rooms with en suite bathrooms, a restaurant, a caravan park and five self-catering apartments. Camping is R80 a person, a double room in the hotel is R600 a night, and a four-sleeper apartment is R700 a night. Tel 027-672-1614, email kamieshotel@kingsley.co.za, www.kamieskroonhotel.com.

Desert Horse Campsite at Klein-Aus Vista was one of our favourite spots. Our secluded site under a camelthorn tree was peaceful and quiet. Each campsite has a tap and a braai, and the ablution blocks (with hot-water showers) are spotless. There’s a shop with camping supplies, beer and meat, as well as a restaurant. Camping is from R80 a person a night. Klein-Aus Vista also offers other accommodation options: starting at R135 a person at the Geisterschlucht Cabin (self-catering), which can accommodate 20 people. B&B is from R600 a person at the Desert Horse Inn, and R835 a person at Eagles Nest Chalets. Tel +264-63-258-116, info@klein-aus-vista.com, www.klein-aus-vista.com.

For the best views in Lüderitz, stay at self-catering Lighthouse on Shark Island. It sleeps four people (there are two bedrooms and two bathrooms), has a basic kitchen and lounge with DStv. Costs from R220 a person. Shark Island offers other accommodation options too. Tel 021-422-3761, email ct.bookings@nwr.com.na, www.nwr.com.na.

Sossus Oasis Campsite has a prime position outside the gate to Sossusvlei. It’s jacked up and each site has a shower with hot water, toilet, sink, plug point and braai area. A well-stocked petrol station shop has all the supplies you’ll need for camping including delicious apple strudel. Camping is R150 a person a night and R115 a site (max six people). Children from six to 12 pay R75 and children under six are free. Tel 021-930-4564, email reservations@sossusvleilodge.com, www.sossusoasis.com/camp.htm.

Dunedin Star Guesthouse is close to the centre of Swakopmund, so it’s easy to walk to restaurants and attractions. Rooms are small and basic, but clean and comfortable. A double en suite room is R500 a night, including breakfast. Tel +264-64-407-105, email bookings@dunedinstar.com, www.dunedinstar.com.

Ai-Ais Hotsprings Spa has a swimming pool, spa, hot springs, tennis courts, restaurant, shop and bar. The campsite is spread across the lawns with lovely views of the surrounding mountains. Camping is R125 a person (max eight people and two vehicles), B&B is R500 a person sharing and self-catering chalets are R800 a person sharing a night. Tel 021-422-3761, email ct.bookings@nwr.com.na, www.nwr.com.na

Tok Tokkie Trails offers two-night, three-day walking trails in NamibRand Private Nature Reserve. You walk in a small group with a guide and bags are transported. All sleeping equipment, linen and towels are provided and meals are prepared at the camps. Rates for SADC residents start at R1 386 a person a night in low season (all months except July, August and September). All walking trails are two nights – you can’t book for one night. Tel +264-61-264-521, email toktokkie@toktokkietrails.com, www.toktokkietrails.com.

Alternatives to self-drive trips in Namibia

Chameleon Safaris offers three-day tours of Sossusvlei from R3 850 a person. Getaway readers will receive a 10 per cent discount. www.chameleonsafaris.com.

Alternatively, explore Namibia by train. JB Train Tours offers 10-day trips around Namibia for R18 500 a person. www.jbtours.co.za.

To book an awesome package to Namibia, visit Getaway Adventures. http://adventures.getaway.co.za.

The vehicle we used in Namibia

The new Mercedes G 300 CDI Professional marks the return of a cross-country legend. Turning heads wherever we went, it’s a powerful and iconic vehicle. It drives smoothly and efficiently on tar and gravel roads, but really shows its strengths on rocky terrain and loose sand, which were no match for the high torque V6 diesel engine.

This vehicle has plenty of space for a family and all the holiday gear you can imagine, and ensures that you will feel safe and in control, no matter what the situation. Built for use by armies and emergency response agencies, the G 300 is practically indestructible, and manages to provide a fun and comfortable ride on top of that. From R773 990. www.mercedes.co.za.

Read Sarah’s blogs on her Namibia trip

Read Sarah’s blog on her road trip.

As the sporty Mini Countryman buzzed by, wind lifted the cap off the head of a snoozing street-side vendor – his feet propped up on the bag of charcoal he was trying to sell. He stirred, collected the mutinous cap and grinned at the little blue bee, its racing stripes a blur in the distance. Autumn leaves, still stubbornly clinging to their branches long after the season, finally flickered to the ground in celebration as the car approached. At a petrol station a paparazzi of young men advanced, cellphone cameras at arm’s length, clicking furiously.

Web editor, Sarah Duff, and I had gone in search of the warm heart of Africa, reported in the tourism brochures to belong to Malawi. But so far – as we snaked up north from Johannesburg through Zimbabwe and Mozambique – we were discovering that if Malawi was the heart, its reverberations packed a powerful beat beyond its borders. It might have been that we were in fine holiday fettle or just that we happened to be driving the coolest car this side of the stiletto curtain, but everywhere we went we were treated like celebrities.

Even the border police – a species impervious to enthusiasm – battled to maintain their indifference. A hefty specimen at the Beitbridge crossing ambled over to the Mini, leaned heavily against the window rim and craned his neck, turtle like, to inspect the interior.
‘Is it turbo?’ he asked, his tone still official.
‘Turbo,’ we affirmed.
‘Hmm, pow-wa-full,’ he admitted.
‘Crank up the sound,’ he demanded.
‘EX-CA-LLAA-ANT,’ he boomed in time to the beat as he flapped his hand towards the exit, indicating we could leave.

If we thought we’d had a good time on the drive up, however, Malawi was to prove to be all that, but in capital letters with explanation marks. From the minute you step into the country, the vibe changes from the officious pomp and mayhem common at most borders to a gentle lollop. It’s as if a magical personality transfusion occurs within the mere metres it takes to transverse countries. Even the landscape changes from hot and dry to undulating, green and significantly cooler. Touts approach without aggression and hang around, even after being fobbed off, not to cash in but to chat about this and that.

It’s true what they say, Malawians are among the world’s friendliest people, which is probably how it earned the cliché: Africa for Beginners. Jittery foreigners keen to explore the continent, but souped up on bad press and news clips, would do well to start here. For visitors, this is a gentle land where smiles are broad and offers of assistance hide no agenda.

At 120 000 square kilometres it might be only a tiny slip of a country, but it bursts with a good sampling of what Africa has to offer, sans the aggression and threat of crime of some other nations. Landscapes are peppered with traditional villages and are generally green and lush, ranging from misty mountain heights to rolling grassland, forests, escarpments and dramatic river valleys. The variety of scenery provides myriad opportunities for activities, from wildlife safaris to climbing, hiking and mountain biking. Birding is particularly good with about 650 species recorded in the country, of which roughly 10 per cent aren’t seen anywhere else in Southern Africa.

As for Sarah and I, ours was a backpacking safari, which took us to Africa’s third-largest lake cushioned within the trenches of the Great Rift Valley. Lake Malawi is the pride of the country and is a prime diving and snorkelling destination, largely because of an estimated 700 species of fish – the most abundant being the tiny, multicoloured cichlids, which are easily spotted weaving and dancing in the shallows.

Our route took a spidery trail from Senga Bay in the south to Nkhata Bay in the central district, back down the lake to Cape Maclear before buzzing further south to Mangochi. It was only a taster of the lake’s mellifluous (that’s sweet or musical – ed.) charms. Each stop took on a fresh aspect, deepening our love affair with this enchanted body of water.

From the comfort of loungers at Cool Runnings in Senga Bay we watched village life unfold against a wild lake, waves crashing in perfect imitation of the sea. In the afternoons we were mobbed by smiling faces as children bust out their kungfu moves for the muzungus (white people) clicking cameras. Later in the day the kids were keen to entertain, but in the early mornings rumbling tummies and the serious business of breakfast took precedence over play. With the red dawn rising, a stream of children trundled towards the village, their silver plates glinting, to where the fishermen unbundled their hauls from the night before.

The town at Nkhata Bay, meanwhile, boasted one of the main ports on Lake Malawi and bustled with industry. It’s an energy completely out of sync with the dreamy lethargy of Mayoka Village, the backpackers we called home for a couple of days. Perched magically against a steep, shaded slope the quaint eco-buildings were connected via a maze of pathways and stairs that offered generous views of the calm, aquamarine bay below. It was so reminiscent of a rustic Rivendell I was surprised not to happen upon a stray elf or hobbit.

Equally chilled, but with a hint of Euro-African cool was Gecko Lounge in Cape Maclear. There’s an easy alliance between the parallel universes of tourist and villager, each going about their business, be it washing clothes and collecting water or lazing at the beach bar.

To top it all off, we cruised down to Mangochi for what has to be Africa’s coolest festival, Lake of Stars for three days of music, friendship and fun. By the time we turned our Countryman’s nose towards home, we were sporting grins as wide as any Malawian. The Foals and Freshlyground might have been the headline act at the festival, but it was Sarah and I who felt like the true rock stars of Africa’s warm heart.

Getting there

From Johannesburg, head north on the N1 to the Musina/ Beitbridge border. Once in Zimbabwe, head to Harare on the A4, then get on to the A2 to the Nyama-Panda/Cochemane into Mozambique and take the 103 through Tete. From there you have the option of entering Malawi through the Zóbue border post or (as we did) taking the 223 to the Dedza border post into Malawi.

Need to know

At the time of going to press, Malawi was experiencing electricity cuts and shortages of fuel, soft drinks and beer. Many tourist venues have generators and pack a case or two of your favourite beverage if you’re worried you might get thirsty. Check with your intended accommodation vendor to find out what the fuel situation is like before you leave. Fill up at every available opportunity and hide some filled jerry cans in the boot for emergencies.

Also note that the fluctuating exchange rate and high fuel prices mean that while accommodation vendors are trying to keep their rates down, they reserve the right to increase prices from those that are printed here.

Currency

The Malawian unit of currency is the kwacha, which divides into tambalas. It’s a good idea to keep some cash on you as banks and ATMs can be few and far between. Most tourist-based businesses will accept US dollars and rands, although you’re unlikely to get an optimal exchange rate.

Health

Malawi is a high-risk malaria area, so take prophylactics. Bilharzia is common. Wear insect repellent and avoid swimming in areas with reeds or stagnant water. Dry yourself thoroughly and vigorously after swimming.

Where to stay

Cool Runnings is an oasis with lush lawns overlooking the lake. Accommodation includes camping, dorms and en suite rooms. Grab a beer at the bar, watch a spot of DStv in the lounge or try activities such as kneeboarding, water skiing and kayaking. Forty-five per cent of the backpackers’ profits are ploughed into community projects. Rates start at $5 (about R43) a person for camping to $35 (about R300) a person a night for an en suite room (sleeps two). Tel +26-512-63-398, email coolrunnings@malawi.net.

Gecko Lounge at Cape Maclear may appear überchilled, but don’t be fooled. Come party time DJs are on the decks. Accommodation ranges from self-catering chalets (sleep four), a dormtype room (sleeps eight) and en suite rooms (sleep four). Activities include hiking, cultural tours and scuba diving. Rates are from $15 (about R130) a person a night to $130 (about R1 120) for a four-sleeper chalet. Tel +265-999-787-322 or +265-999-833-856, email bookgeckolounge@gmail.com, www.geckolounge.net.

Kande Beach is a stopover bristling with overlanders, fronted by a wide strip of white sand and pristine blue lake. Accommodation caters for a range of travellers, from dorms and camping to en suite rooms, beach chalets and self-catering units. Activities include horse riding, kayaking and catamaran hire. Rates start at MK750 (about R40) a person a night for camping and range to MK12 000 (about R640) a night for Stoned Cottage (sleep six). Tel +265-888-263-500, email info@kandebeach.com, www. kandebeach.com.

Mayoka Village has earned a must-visit status among backpackers. Activities include free boat trips every Tuesday and use of snorkelling equipment and dugout canoes. Stay in the campsite, dorm rooms, chalets (sleep four) or luxury stone cottages (sleep five). Prices start at $5 and $6 (about R43 and R51) for camping and dormitory beds a night and range to $20 (about R170) a person a night for the stone cottages. Tel +265-999-268- 595, email mayokavillage@ yahoo.co.uk, www.mayokavillagebeachlodge.com.

What we drove

The Mini Cooper S All4 Countryman poo-poohed any notions that a sedan might not be the best choice for a road trip in Africa. The all-wheel drive came in handy on dirt roads, but with 135 kW at 5 500 rpm, it was happiest when let loose on the open road. It has the sexiness of a Mini with the space of a larger car, so we could comfortably load up with gear. From R393 000. www.mini.co.za.

Get more online

• Read Sarah’s 10 things she loves about Malawi at blog.getaway.co.za/featured_posts/10-love-malawi/
• For a range of incredible Malawi travel packages, go to Getaway Adventures at adventures. getaway.co.za/category/ countries/malawi.
• Read CarMag’s review of the Mini Cooper S All 4 Countryman at www.carmag.co.za/article/mini-cooper-s-all4-countryman-2011-01-25

(Photographs by Lisa Johnson and Sarah Duff)

For many people, visiting game reserves is all about seeing the Big Five. But what about those animals you have almost zero chance of seeing? Justin Fox drew up a list of South Africa’s most elusive animals and set off to find the Cape mountain leopard, aardvark, pangolin, naturally occurring white lion and riverine rabbit.

The not-spotted Cape Leopard

Quinton Martins is mad. And not in some superficial, mildly nutty way. Rather, it’s a deep and abiding insanity. His madness started nine years ago when he became obsessed with the idea of finding the near-mythical Cape mountain leopard. Most people know they exist – their tracks are occasionally spotted in the mountains and a farmer shoots one now and then to much public consternation – but no-one ever sees them. As such, they only half exist, occupying a place at the borders of public mythology.

In 2003, Quinton began looking for the elusive cat in the Cederberg mountains. He would go for weeks at a time and hike alone in the remoter regions searching for, and documenting, any sign of leopard. His passion grew into a masters, then doctoral, thesis. He poured all his time and money into the project. It was nine months before he glimpsed his first leopard (at 23h05 on 23 September 2004) and more than a year before he captured and collared one.

In September 2011, I joined Quinton to try and find a Cape leopard. I booked a self-catering hut on Driehoek Farm and hadn’t finished unpacking when a vehicle pulled up outside. A tall figure with a floppy hat and spectacles stood on my stoep, stomping the dust off his boots.

‘So, you ready to bag a leopard, then?’ said Quinton, rubbing his stubbly chin.
‘Sure!’ I said.
‘Good, let’s go set some traps.’

Over the coming days we set wire-and-footplate snares and checked them every few hours. We also tried to find the leopards Quinton had collared using telemetry. One morning we received a good signal from Max, a male leopard that had wandered into our valley.

We headed up a rocky pass, switchbacking on increasingly hairy bends, into a world of jumbled sandstone and bright green fynbos. As we drove, Quinton talked about the Cape Leopard Trust, which he’d founded in 2004. He felt that leopards were being killed or relocated unnecessarily. If you eliminated a ‘problem animal’ other leopards simply moved in to contest for its vacant range, and this could cause even more trouble.

That’s when the idea of a predator conservation trust came about. Fundraisers were held and money started coming in. The programme extended into other parts of the Cape and there are currently leopard projects running in the Boland mountains, Namaqualand and Gouritz region. Solutions to human-wildlife conflict are being sought through rigorous scientific research, empowering farmers and local communities, encouraging ecotourism and running education programmes.

We continued up the side of the mountain. All the while, the bleating transmission from Max’s collar grew more intense. At the top of the pass we got out and Quinton aimed his VHF telemetry at a nearby koppie. The signal was strong. ‘Okay, we’re going to have to hike in after him,’ he said. We set off at a blistering pace, but the signal soon faded as the cat slipped over a ridge. The weather began to close in. The wind grew icy and Sneeuberg dissolved into white. Every now and then Quinton would pause to stare at the terrain, thinking like a cat. Which way would Max have gone? Ahead of me the half-man, half-leopard slunk into the distance. But, on that occasion, the cat got away.

On my last day, Quinton and his wife, Elizabeth, arrived to take me on a concerted hunt for Spot, a female that frequented the area around Driehoek. Driving up Uilsgat Kloof, we again picked up a strong telemetry signal. As we were preparing our packs for a hike into the gorge, Elizabeth happened to glance at the cliff and remarked: ‘Look there, at those black eagles. They’re dive bombing something.’

‘It has to be Spot!’ cried Quinton, snatching his binoculars.
We watched the two great birds making their attack run. As they plummeted, each one let out an unearthly scream. ‘There, on that big boulder, she’s cowering,’ said Quinton. I grabbed my binoculars and trained them in the direction he was pointing. Nothing. Or perhaps a glimpse of movement? I stared intently, willing the leopard to show herself. Had I seen something? Maybe just the hint of a cat? Perhaps not.

As I drove back out of the berg that afternoon, I thought about my almost, half, maybe sighting. Did it really matter that I hadn’t actually seen Spot? The fact that she was there, a wild big cat within two hours of a major city, was remarkable in itself. It was like ecological money in the bank. Just knowing Spot was there was enough.

The mobile termite mound

Finding an aardvark isn’t quite as difficult as a Cape leopard, but it’s still a considerable challenge. By contacting a number of conservation bodies and universities, I’d found out about a dynamic Swedish zoologist, Fredrik Dalerum, working in the field of terrestrial animal ecology. His research covered such animals as bat-eared foxes, aardwolves and aardvarks.

When I eventually tracked him down, Fred invited me to visit his research site on a farm just outside Kimberley in the Northern Cape. I mentioned that aardwolf had been a strong contender for the Impossible Five and Fred suggested I swap it for aardvark. It wasn’t a bad idea. I could go with the slightly looser quest of finding an ‘aard’ something, whether it be wolf or vark, and see which one turned up. Or was that a cop-out?

I met up with Fred in Kimberley one summer evening and we drove out to the farm. Benfontein is set on flat, wide-open veld covered with blond grass and dotted with termitaria. It’s owned by De Beers and has been made available to students for research, including work on termites and black-footed cats, another Impossible Five contender. Fred described the various projects being undertaken. For instance, one of the scientists was collecting semen samples from black-footed cats.

‘How?’ I asked, a parade of inappropriate images pouring through my head.
‘Electro-ejaculation,’ said Fred.
‘Ah,’ I said, nodding appreciatively.
‘You know, sticking a probe up its anus to stimulate the prostrate and make the cat ejaculate.’
‘Not very romantic,’ I said.
‘That depends,’ said Fred.
‘We did it to ground squirrels a few years back.’
‘Fun?’
‘Not as much fun as doing it to an elephant.’
‘Of course,’ I said. ‘Any chance of seeing aardvark?’ I asked, steering the conversation to my area of interest.
‘Our work here is primarily on aardwolf and bat-eared foxes,’ Fred explained. ‘We haven’t got stuck into the aardvarks yet. They’re terribly elusive.’

Over the next few nights I went tracking with Fred and an MSc Student, Charmaine Theron, who was studying termite predation by animals such as aardvarks and aardwolves.
‘Seen any aardvarks?’ I asked her.
‘Nope, but I see the damage they cause all the time. I can show you lots of termites if you like?’
‘No thanks,’ I said, trying not to sound ungracious.

Great, I thought, my chances weren’t looking good. We saw plenty of bat-eared foxes and had some lovely aardwolf sightings, but no aardvarks. It was time to change venue.

So I drove three hours north to Tswalu, where I’d heard the chances were good. Tswalu is an enormous reserve owned by the Oppenheimer family set in a starkly beautiful Kalahari landscape of red dunes, purple mountains and undulating grasslands. I booked in for a few days of aardvark hunting in the lap of safari luxury.

I had the exclusive attention of guide Jolyon Neytzell-de- Wilde and tracker William Gatsene, both accomplished bush men. That evening we set off on our hunt. The great by-product of searching for aardvark at Tswalu was all the game sightings along the way: buffalo, gemsbok, tsessebe and pale giraffes that looked as though they’d been dipped in Jik. There were also those luxury-lodge distractions that take your breath away, such as a bush braai in the dunes – think kelims, throw cushions and hurricane lanterns under a blanket of stars. On the second night, we struck gold. Driving down a sand track, William lifted his hand for us to halt. His spotlight beam picked out two big bunny ears above the long grass about 40 metres to our left.

Without saying anything, Jolyon and I climbed off the vehicle. My guide carried a powerful torch with a red filter, which disturbs the animal less than a bright, white beam. He edged forward. When we were within 25 metres, Jolyon switched on his torch. The animal was out in the open and lifted its head to stare directly at us, eyes glowing red. It looked like a termite mound on legs. A hunched stance, piggy-like body, enormous ears and a ridiculously long snout like a nozzle. I was smitten. It was one of the most adorable creatures I’d ever seen. Not exactly pretty, but its quirkiness was its beauty … a bit like a bush Eeyore. We followed for a while, but there was no way we could keep up as it trotted off with a shambling gait. Animal number two was in the bag.

The walking artichoke

Having struck it lucky with aardvark, I decided to set the Tswalu team my next task: finding the totally impossible pangolin.

‘This is probably the best place in South Africa to find one,’ said Jolyon. ‘But I’ve seen only five in three years.’

Five is a lot more than most rangers see in a lifetime. First we needed to find tracks in daylight. For three days William searched and, on a number of occasions, found tracks but either lost them in thick grass or they disappeared down a burrow. Short of digging the creatures out, we had to wait until after dark when they emerge.

Once, we returned to a burrow just after sunset to find the animal had scarpered. William tried to track in the dark, but it was useless. On my last night, Jolyon decided to set up a concerted stakeout from late afternoon. We packed a picnic dinner and sat near the hole until late into the night, but the creature failed to emerge.

It was time for Plan B. There is an enormous hunting ranch near Upington called Kalahari Oryx where a young scientist is researching pangolins. A barefoot Darren Pietersen met me in the driveway. I was to spend the coming days with his family at their home (Darren’s father is manager of the ranch).

After dinner, Darren and I set out. He had six pangolins fitted with transmitters and it should have been relatively easy to track them down. As he drove, we spoke about his masters thesis. He told me about the pioneering pangolin research done by Jonathan Swart in Mpumalanga in the 1990s. Darren was comparing the earlier findings with his own observations. Most noticeably, these ‘desert’ pangolins were on average a third smaller than those studied by Swart and had adapted in many ways to the drier conditions. In the Kalahari they were also diurnal in winter, which differed from their lowveld cousins. Darren thought there were about 60 on the property, but a number had been killed by electric fences. Other than humans, these fences are the only other real threat to pangolins. When they get shocked they automatically roll into a ball for self-defence, often around the electrified wire, which repeatedly shocks them. Darren said they were experimenting with fences that allowed for pangolin traffic.

We stopped a few times on the crests of dunes to check the telemetry. When he picked up a strong signal, we continued on foot. It was cold and Darren put on an old jacket with sleeves that were shredded. I asked what had happened.

‘Ag, a wildebeest got hold of it,’ he said.
‘With you in it?’
‘Ja, at that time I was, actually.’
‘Not his colour?’
‘No, didn’t fit him either, despite the arm alterations. So I got it back.’

We came to a burrow and Darren pointed the Yagi antenna at the ground. The pangolin was down there, just below our feet. ‘Very strange,’ said Darren. ‘It’s already ten o’ clock and he hasn’t emerged yet.’

We proceeded to another burrow, then another. All the pangolins were home, soundly asleep. We returned after midnight … to find all of them still in their burrows. Darren looked perplexed. ‘This doesn’t normally happen. Maybe they heard you were coming.’

The next night we were back. Again the likely candidates were snug underground. I’d almost given up hope when we came to Tokman’s burrow. Darren directed his torch to a clump of grass … and there it was. Like a prehistoric beetle, it waddled across our path, a scraping sound coming from its scales. Tokman was a mature male. He emitted a low purring, almost like an elephant’s rumble. Tokman looked for all the world like a cross between a pinecone and a sausage dog. I was elated; Darren looked visibly relieved.

A very pale cat

White lions occur in a number of reserves and zoos around the world, but only four are naturally occurring. Their home is the Timbavati.

There is a recessive white gene among some of the prides in this corner of Africa that every now and then throws out a white specimen. The cubs often don’t survive, as they stand out a mile and are greatly disadvantaged in the hunting stakes. At present there are three young adults and a cub in the area – all of them white as the driven snow.

I’d been told that my best chance of seeing one was Motswari, a small private game reserve in the northern section of the Timbavati. The two most promising white lions had recently been kicked out of their pride and were nomadic, ranging across vast distances, deep into Kruger National Park, so getting my timing right was crucial. The plan was that I be on 24-hour standby and if they made a kill or looked settled at Motswari, I’d jump on a plane and fly to nearby Hoedspruit.

However, three months passed and the cats made only fleeting visits, remaining on the move. So the Motswari team suggested I come anyway and try my luck. Arriving in the hot Lowveld in the middle of summer, the veld was green and lush with pools of standing water everywhere, allowing game and predators to roam far and wide.

Over the coming days I went out for four hours every morning and evening with ranger Shadrack Mkhabela and tracker Tiyani Mashele, hunting for lion spoor. The Timbavati is a beautiful chunk of wilderness crisscrossed by sand rivers and teeming with big game. We were repeatedly distracted from our quest by excellent Big Five sightings: an elephant bull with perhaps the biggest tusks I’d ever seen, skittish white rhino, vast herds of buffalo, a female leopard enjoying an impala kill and lions galore, but unfortunately of the wrong hue. Tippex was suggested, purely for photographic purposes, but this seemed somehow unethical.

Not finding white lions was actually extremely pleasant. I didn’t mind if this dragged on for weeks. A comfortable rondavel in a leafy bend of the Sohobele River, a rocky plunge pool, delicious meals and a parade of game through an unfenced camp. As I sat at my computer, a large spotted genet snoozed on a branch above my head while an elephant snacked on the tree beside me. I half hoped the white lions would never turn up and this could sort of go on indefinitely.

But the city called, and the next mammal on my list needed to be found, so reluctantly I took a flight back to the real world and a date with animal number five.

A very rare bunny

Africa’s only true rabbit is actually of European origin (they emigrated 12 million years ago). As the Karoo habitat they ended up in was rocky and arid, these rabbits stuck to watercourses where they could burrow in the soft sand to make their homes. They became entirely adapted to a riverine environment.

Then disaster struck. A new wave of European settlers arrived from the north. These ones stood on two legs and didn’t dig warrens. But they wanted the alluvial land for their farms and slowly forced the rabbits out, ploughing up the fertile soil and letting their livestock trample the riverine lands. Within three centuries, the new Europeans had driven the old Europeans to the brink of extinction. Today there may be as few as 250 breeding pairs left, making these critically endangered mammals one of the most threatened in Africa and thought to be the 13th most endangered on Earth.

Riverine rabbits are still occasionally spotted in isolated pockets of the Great Karoo and, more recently, in parts of the Little Karoo, but if you want to see one for yourself – and the chances are very slim – the best place to try your luck is Sanbona Wildlife Reserve. This huge wildlife reserve is one of the only places the rabbit still has a halfway decent chance of survival. I’d been told by scientists to visit the area during the new moon, which provided the best opportunity of spotting one of these shy, nocturnal animals.

I entered the reserve and drove through a mountainous landscape dotted with wild flowers, eventually drawing up under the bluegums at Tilney Manor. The homestead dates back to the 1890s and is today the main lodge of Sanbona. At lunch, I met Keir Lynch, assistant wildlife manager and a man who’s passionate about riverine rabbits. Keir is tall, with a fiery red beard that tapers to a point. The whole effect is somewhat piratical.

‘Aargh, they’re magic little animals, sleek, beautifully built: the Porsche of rabbits,’ enthused Redbeard in a booming, sonorous voice, as he adjusted his eye patch and called for more grog, or is that my faulty memory?

As we tucked into fish and chips, he gave me the lowdown. This rabbit was so heavily under threat because its natural habitat of soft alluvial soils was shrinking all the time. To make matters worse, they bucked the trend of mating like … well … rabbits. These are slow breeders, producing only one or two kittens and only one birthing a breeding season.

That evening was to be our first hunt. It was the new moon, but even in the relative safety of darkness, a rabbit in the open is an easy target for the likes of caracal, jackal and owl and they had to be very wary.

We set off in an open Land Cruiser. I swept the bush on our left with a spotlight, Keir took the right and guide Jannie Swanepoel scanned the road ahead. We drove at tortoise pace, searching for movement or the telltale orange flash of their eyes. After five long hours, we decided to turn for home. The vehicle nosed into a gulley, our tyres splashing through a stream. Keir slowly drew the vehicle to a halt and switched off the engine. ‘And here on my right, folks, we have the riverine rabbit,’ he said softly.

There it sat, about 10 metres from the vehicle, a twitching bunny caught in Jannie’s spotlight. Once I was over my surprise, and the vague disappointment that it looked a bit like any bunny one has ever seen, I began to note the distinctive features. It had enormous, elongated ears, each eye had a white ring and there was a long black stripe extending from just below the mouth almost to the ears, giving it a wide, if uncertain, smile.

I glanced at my companions. Their faces were in rapture, like courtiers in the presence of royalty. ‘A magnificent rabbit, hey,’ whispered Keir.

The creature took a few hops, turned to look at us, and then disappeared into the shrubbery beside the road. The stars were singing in their icy firmament and all three of us had grins as wide as the rabbit’s as we drove home.

I had a day left at Sanbona and took an evening game drive with Jannie. Over a sundowner drink on a koppie I noticed a white object in the long grass behind my guide.

‘What’s that?’ I asked. ‘Oh, that’s just one of our white lions,’ he said nonchalantly. I promptly spilled half a G&T down the front of my shirt.

Jannie explained that Sanbona had introduced white lions onto the reserve (as is the case in a number of parks around South Africa) and they were thriving. These weren’t the naturally occurring cats I’d been searching for in the Timbavati, but at least I’d found a white lion. Four out of five wasn’t bad, I reckoned.

Finding the Impossible Five

• Your chances of seeing a Cape leopard, other than by pure luck, are slim. Your best bet is the Cederberg. Find out more about the sterling work of Quinton Martins and the Cape Leopard Trust at www.capeleopard.org.za.
• Finding a riverine rabbit is equally difficult, but Sanbona Wildlife Reserve (details below) is a good start. For more info, or if you’ve seen a riverine rabbit, contact Christy Bragg at the Endangered Wildlife Trust Riverine Rabbit Programme, email christyb@ewt.org.za.
• Getting to see an aardvark is a little easier. They are spotted fairly often in Eastern and Northern Cape reserves, especially in winter. I spent time at Benfontein, one of the nine properties on the Diamond Route, a project which focuses on linking the conservation properties of De Beers, the Oppenheimer family and Ponahalo Holdings. These areas provide a safe haven for a wide variety of rare plants and animals and provide research opportunities. Email Duncan MacFadyen, manager of research, at duncan.macfadyen@eoson.co.za or go to www.diamondroute.co.za.
• Tswalu (details below) is excellent in winter for aardvark and is probably your best shot for pangolins anywhere in South Africa.
• Motswari (details below), or any one of the northern Timbavati game reserves, offers a relatively good chance of seeing a naturally occurring white lion.

Where to stay

Driehoek in the Cederberg is an historical farm surrounded by magnificent peaks and is an ideal base for hiking. There is also good mountain biking, rock art, horse riding and spa treatments. It offers self-catering facilities ranging from campsites to fully equipped chalets. Camping starts from R30 a person sharing and huts from R115 a person sharing. Tel 027-482-2828, email driehoekcederberg@gmail.com, www.cederberg-accommodation.co.za.

Motswari Private Game Reserve has a family-owned, old-style bush lodge with a friendly atmosphere: rondavels set in a picturesque river bend, a rocky plunge pool, a boma for firelight dinners and an open-sided lounge with trees poking through the thatch. The food is excellent (lots of game meats) and the wildlife viewing of a very high calibre, even from the lodge. Rates start from R2 950 a person a night sharing and this includes all meals and game activities. Tel 011-463-1990, email reservations@motswari.co.za, www.motswari.co.za.

Just three hours from Cape Town, Sanbona boasts 54 000 hectares of undulating mountains and plains. Apart from hosting the Big Five (including white lions) and being one of the only conserved habitats for riverine rabbits, it’s a magnificent destination for flora. There are three luxury camps, each with a distinctive atmosphere. Rates start from R4 235 a person a night sharing and this includes all meals and game activities (enquire about specials). Tel 041-407-1000, email reservations@sanbona.com, www.sanbona.com.

Tswalu is South Africa’s largest private game reserve, covering an area of more than 100 000 hectares. The Kalahari landscapes are stunning and the wildlife viewing exceptional. Guests get their own dedicated vehicle, ranger and tracker, making for a very exclusive game experience. The main lodge, The Motse, nestles at the foot of the Korannaberg mountains, facing west across rolling grasslands. The décor and design are some of the best in Africa. Rates are from R7 700 a person a night sharing and this includes all meals and game activities (enquire about promotions). Tel 053-781-9331, email res@tswalu.com, www.tswalu.com.

Long before we saw the waterfall, we smelt it. The scent of water flowing over hot desert rock lured us closer; the same smell that comes with the first thunderstorms after a long highveld winter. But strangely, there was no rain; just more sunshine, more rock and more heat.

‘Come on!’ my friend Gareth John shouted. ‘I need to see water again!’ We’d been travelling for several weeks through the Kalahari Desert as part of my Year in the Wild journey. We were dry, dusty and dors. We were longing for water.

But how could there be a river here? And how could there be a huge waterfall in this flat, hot, rocky land on the edge of the Kalahari?

Geological tricks

The Orange River runs like a vein of life through South Africa. By some wonderful trick of the geological gods, the country’s longest waterway flows through the driest and hottest parts of the country. Instead of flowing east from its source in the Drakensberg on a shorter journey to the subtropics of the Indian Ocean, the river flows in a westerly direction.

Also called the Gariep River, it takes the distinctly long way across the subcontinent, making its way slowly to the Atlantic Ocean, meandering some 2 200 kilometres through an increasingly arid landscape. At its mouth in the southern Namib Desert, barely 40 millimetres of rain speckles the dry earth every year.

On its journey, the river sustains entire towns and cities, farms, livestock, crops and wild animals. Without its fresh water, South Africa would be a completely different country. But the Orange River waits for nearly 1 500 kilometres before it shows off its natural splendour. At Augrabies, almost the entire river pours over a 90-metre high granite cliff, crashing into a narrow gorge less than 100 metres wide.

We parked our Ford Everest and rushed down the boardwalk that leads to the main viewing deck. First we saw the spray of water; a rainbow formed in the late afternoon light. The shudder of pounding water sent vibrations through the rock and into our bones. Then we saw it: two tonnes of water hurtling down every second, smashing into the gorge below. For 600 million years, the river has cut its way through this weak point in the granite rock.

We stood dumbstruck, hypnotised by the spectacle. It was hard to believe the river is but a trickle compared to the floods of the rainy seasons. During particularly wet summers, when the Drakensberg experiences higher-than-usual rainfall, the falls transform into a snorting monster.

‘The power is scary,’ park manager Steven Smith told me. ‘It’s almost unbelievable. The viewing deck closest to the falls is [often] smashed to smithereens. We still haven’t had a chance to repair it from the the most recent floods.’

Recent floods brought five tonnes of water flowing over the falls every second and, in 1988, it reached eight tonnes of water a second. ‘Some geohydrologists have worked out that the maximum amount of water we could expect in a flood is close to 29 tonnes of water a second,’ Steven explained. ‘I wouldn’t want to be around for that.’

The scary monster

Indeed, the local Nama people prefer to keep away from the falls. They have lived in the region for centuries, joining the Bushmen who once hunted and gathered here for 100 000 years. Just like modern tourists, the Nama would have been drawn to the water to quench their thirst and let their livestock drink, but they avoided the falls completely. According to folklore, a monster snake lives in the plunge pool, luring people and animals into the depths with its shiny scales, devouring them with glee.

Their beliefs aren’t that far off and are supported by some convincing statistics. Of the 22 people who have fallen into the gorge since the park was proclaimed in 1966, only two have survived – a Scandinavian tourist in 1979 and an army serviceman a few years later. Like moths to a flame, more than 70 000 tourists visit the falls every year – sometimes as many as 90 000 during flood years. No wonder the boardwalks now all have solid, high fences.

We stayed for sunset, watching the changing light and gazing down into the canyon. We could hardly hear each other speak above the roar of the cascading water. The name Augrabies means ‘place of great noise’ and comes from the Nama word ‘!oukurubes’. In 1778, Scandinavian explorer Hendrik Jacob Wikar became the first white man to record the falls and called them Aukoerebis.

Some spray settled on our hot bodies. After the brackish water of the Kalahari, it was the first pure, fresh water we’d seen for several weeks. Refreshed, we headed back to make a braai at our chalet a few hundred metres away, the sound of the falls in the distance.

More than the falls

But the 55 383-hectare park isn’t just about the falls. There’s an array of wildlife, including the endangered Hartmann’s mountain zebra, gemsbok, springbok, eland, kudu, steenbok, klipspringer and giraffe (which are lighter in colour than their lowveld counterparts, an adaption to the intense heat).

The largest predator is the secretive leopard, but it’s rarely seen; this means visitors are welcome to leave their cars and explore on foot – something that isn’t possible in Kruger, Addo or other parks which have dangerous large animals such as lion, elephant or buffalo.

So, early the next morning, we set off on the Dassie Nature Trail, a three-hour hike that skirts the edge of the canyon. It soon became obvious that the main falls are only one of several astounding viewpoints. The 20-kilometre gorge below is as spectacular: narrow, precipitous and deep. Below, the water churns its way over countless huge rapids, washing around massive boulders the size of houses, carried down by prehistoric floods of gargantuan proportions.

First we came across Twin Falls. It’s that part of the braided river above the gorge which flows slightly southwest, missing the main falls to crash over two successive cliffs. It then joins up with the main river and its gorge. Arrow Point is where the two gorges meet.

We soon realised why Arrow Point isn’t part of the trail. It’s just too high, too narrow … and it’s not fenced. Gareth and I decided to go anyway. We climbed over boulders, making our way to the edge. We moved slowly, taking our time. ‘This is the most incredible view!’ Gareth screamed. ‘Wooowwwweeee!’

We stood on the narrow rocky peninsula, just a few metres wide. On either side and in front of us, cliffs fell more than 200 metres down, where the two main waterways meet and continue flowing as one river through the epic gorge.

A black eagle soared above us, peregrine falcons streaked below in the gorge and black swifts darted back and forth. Dassies scuttled along the rocks, sure-footed, with their babies close behind. Purple-headed flat lizards trotted perpendicularly down the cliff face, decidedly not scared of heights – unlike us.

Baboons barked behind us, warning us of their presence, or perhaps reminding us that they’ve seen other humans fall down the cliffs; ‘Watch out,’ they seemed to tell us. We headed back to the trail, our hearts and heads dizzy from the vertigo.

The trail took us away from the river and up and over Moon Rock, a huge granite dome with panoramic views. Around us the so-called Orange River Broken Veld extended in all directions. It’s a dry place in winter, with low shrubs that aren’t easy on the eye.

The horizon is broken by few trees, including the quiver tree, that iconic silhouette of the desert. A recent cultural research study discovered a quiver tree with an inscription that hinted at the end of one of the worst droughts in history. ‘Die weer is Mooi 11 Des 1933. Daar is hoop,’ reads the inscription (‘The weather is beautiful 11 Dec 1933. There is hope’).

In the afternoon, we made our way by car several kilometres down river, stopping at the viewpoints of Ararat and Oranjekom, both of which have expansive viewing decks out over the canyon. The further we drove away from the falls, the fewer tourists there were.

At Echo Corner, the viewing point furthest from main falls, we cracked cold beers from the Everest’s fridge, and watched the sun go down on the river. We were the only people there.

Baboon calls echoed off the cliffs. We shouted out at the tops of our voices: an unintelligible, wild, barbaric yawp, a call that can be made only by two men who want to be boys again. Echoes rang out around us. After weeks of travelling in relentless heat, the wild waters of Augrabies had restored us.

Top things to do at Augrabies Falls National Park

1. Visit the various viewpoints of the falls and the gorge, including Main Falls, Arrow Point, Ararat and Oranjekom.
2. In the middle of the night, preferably during full moon, stand near the falls and listen to the crashing water.
3. The Dassie Nature Trail, a three-hour walking trail, gives visitors an excellent overview of the park.
4. View Twin Falls, an underrated attraction that tends to be overshadowed by the main Augrabies Falls. They flow mostly when water levels are above average.
5. Do the Klipspringer Hiking Trail, a three-day, two-night self-guided trail, which is open during the winter months between April and September.
6. Look out for fascinating little creatures such as the colourful Broadley’s flat lizard, which runs up and down the high granite cliffs and jumps acrobatically to catch flying insects.
7. Spot the endangered Hartmann’s mountain zebra. Augrabies is one of the few places in Africa where it’s found in its natural environment.
8. Take a photo of the iconic quiver tree, a huge succulent that is one of the few trees which can survive away from the river and live for several hundred years.

Getting to Augrabies Falls National Park

The quickest way to get to Augrabies Falls National Park is to take the N14 national road between Springbok and Upington. Look out for the R359 turn-off to the park, about 10 km west of Kakamas. Drive north for about 39 km and look for the signs to the park on your right. From there, it’s a short drive to the park entrance.

Park gates and operating hours

The entrance is open daily from 07h00 to 18h30. When the river is in flood, more tourists visit the falls, so the gates may open earlier to reduce traffic. The gates are manned 24 hours a day, but if you want to arrive outside of official opening hours, you’ll need to call ahead.

Where to stay at Augrabies Falls National Park

There is only one rest camp at Augrabies; it’s unfenced (because there are no dangerous animals in the park). There are 50 campsites (40 with power, 10 without) on grass, and trees offer good shade. There’s a communal cooking area with two-plated stoves and washing-up facilities as well as ablutions with toilets and hot showers. For two people it’s R165 a campsite a night (R58 an extra adult and R29 a child, max six).

There are also 59 self-catering, fully equipped chalets, each with kitchenette, lounge and dining area. Most units sleep two and there are family cottages, which have two bedrooms that sleep four. All chalets are air conditioned and have outside braai areas and sleeper couches, suitable for kids only. From R700 to R1 690 a chalet a night.

All chalets and campsites are within walking distance of the falls and the canyon. There are three swimming pools in which to cool off.

Contact details for Augrabies Falls National Park

SanParks, tel 054-452-9200, email augrabiesres@sanparks.org, www.sanparks.org

Read more about Scott Ramsay’s Year in the Wild trip

For all of Scott’s blogs from his Year in the Wild trip, go to blog.getaway.co.za/author/scott-ramsay

The areas in and around the business hub of Gauteng are often viewed as barren wastelands when it comes to spots for outdoor recreation. Tim Hartwright found some rewarding hiking routes, right on your doorstep.

Hiking trails inside Gauteng’s city boundaries

1. Kloofendal Nature Reserve, West Rand

GPS: S26° 07’ 48”, E27° 52’ 47”
This beautiful, well-maintained conservation area has a number of interlinking trails over the craggy terrain. Just two hours of leisurely walking is all that’s required to experience the beauty of this little reserve. Tel 011-674-2980.

2. Walter Sisulu Botanical Gardens, Roodepoort

GPS: S26° 05’ 12”, E27° 50’ 24”
A relatively steep climb leads to the top of a waterfall, giving sweeping views over the surrounding areas. Two hours should be enough to conquer this trail, after which you can head to the on-site restaurant for refreshments. Tel 0861-200-1278, www.sanbi.org.

3. Melville Koppies Nature Reserve, Johannesburg

GPS: S26° 10’ 00”, E28° 00’ 17”
Every Sunday, there’s a guided walk through this small reserve, which reveals surprises such as the remains of Iron Age smelters and an array of indigenous flora. Walks for birders and dog owners are also available. Tel 011-482-4797, www.mk.org.za.

Hiking trails outside Gauteng’s city boundaries

4. Suikerbosrand Nature Reserve, Heidelberg

GPS: S26° 30’ 19”, E28° 14’ 26”
This reserve, located southeast of Johannesburg, close to the historical town of Heidelberg, is home to the popular 11-kilometre Bokmakierie Trail. On weekends, large numbers of hikers descend on this well-marked trail, which can be done in three hours if you’re reasonably fit. The terrain is rugged and there’s little shade, so come prepared. No pre-booking is necessary. Tel 011-904-3930.

5. Klipkraal Trail, Heidelberg

GPS: S26° 48’ 00”, E28° 14’ 00”
This walk through typical highveld vegetation is in the same area as Suikerbosrand, so make a weekend of it and do both trails. There are excellent guest cottages on the farm for those who want a bit more luxury than run-of-the-mill hikers’ accommodation. Tel 086-152-2262, www.jacanacollection.co.za.

6. Quagga’s Pad, Balfour

GPS: S26° 49’ 00”, E28° 37’ 00”
Quagga’s Pad, a privately owned trail near Greylingstad and Balfour, is another route that deserves a visit. Overnight accommodation is in a group of buildings, with proper ablutions, around a braai area. Beds are provided. There are two well-planned trails, one is 12 kilometres and the other is six kilometres. Tel 012-662-1140 or 086-152-2262, www.anvieventures.co.za or www.jacanacollection.co.za.

7. Hennops Trail, Magaliesberg

GPS: S25° 47’ 32”, E27° 58’ 29”
This is a popular trail among day hikers, who enjoy the 10-kilometre walk through dolomite rock formations and a variety of flora. A second and easier trail is also available and accommodation can be booked for those who want to make a weekend of it. Tel 086-152-2262, www.jacanacollection.co.za.

8. Uitkyk Trail, Magaliesberg

GPS: S25° 42’ 00”, E27° 51’ 00” Close to the Hartbeespoort Dam wall, this 8,5-kilometre, single-day trail isn’t a walk in the park. It climbs steeply in places, but the exertion is worthwhile for the breathtaking views of the dam. There are basic ablutions and braai facilities (bring your own wood) at the parking area. Tel 086-152-2262, www.jacanacollection.co.za.

9. Kranskloof Trail, Magaliesberg

GPS: S25° 50’ 00”, E27° 24’ 00”
Located in the Mooinooi area of the Magaliesberg, this is a wonderful hiking opportunity. The 8,7-kilometre trail winds through grasslands before descending into a wooded kloof with natural pools and cascades. Accommodation is available and other activities include a canopy tour. Tel 072-463-5574, www.footprint.co.za.

10. Vredefort Meteorite Trail, Vredefort Dome Deelfontein Camp

GPS: S26° 56’ 00”, E27° 17’ 00”
Mooihoek Camp GPS: S26° 57’ 00”E27° 16’ 00”
Baskop Camp GPS: S26° 55’ 00”, E27° 14’ 00”
Twane Camp GPS: S26° 55’ 14”, E27° 17’ 46”

There are four overnight camps on this trail through the Vredefort Dome, a popular spot for adventure enthusiasts. The trail, which can start from any of these camps, takes you along the banks of the Vaal River at Baskop Camp to the highest point in the Dome at Twane Camp. Tel 086-152-2262, www.jacanacollection.co.za.

11. Impact Crater Trail, Vredefort Dome

GPS: S26° 50’ 00”, E27° 19’ 00”
You’ll need tents and a 4×4 for this trail in one of the most remote parts of the Dome. Kloofs and mountain ridges offer gorgeous panoramic views over the rugged landscape. Tel 086-152-2262, www.jacanacollection.co.za.

Hiking tips

1. When you go walking, always take plenty of water, wear comfortable shoes, a hat and light, loose-fitting clothes, and lather on the sunscreen.
2. Every time you rest, take off your boots and put your socks in the sun. Dry feet and dry socks prevent blisters.

Hiking clubs in the Gauteng area

Several hiking clubs and walking groups offer day outings in and around Johannesburg:

• Boksburg Hiking Club, www.boksburghiking.co.za
• East Rand Hiking Club, www.eastrandhikingclub.co.za
• Footprint Hiking Club, www.footprint.co.za
• Johannesburg Hiking Club, www.jhbhiking.org.za
• Mountain Club of SA, www.mcsa.org.za

Johannesburg’s open spaces are managed by Joburg City Parks (011-712-6600) and several, such as Melville Koppies and Kloofendal (www.mk.org.za and kloofendalfriends.yolasite.com), have active Friends organisations.

Take a hike with Getaway

Join the Getaway team on a hike – keep an eye on our Getaway Events page for info on an event near you.